NeatGuy

why not just use a piece of 4140 and heat treat the business end. It is more expensive than mild steel but 4140 is fairly tough and should last; I think it is worth the extra expense. I use it for my tooling and am very satisfied.

I would be interested to hear of your results. I have wondered how a punch press would work. I am a little sceptical about an 8t punch as my Pullmax P5 is about 12t and my Trumpf cn900 is about 22t. Finish ... ususally I like to birchwood casey or gun blue patina with bees wax and linseed oil for protection.

As promised ... I have some pictures of tooling I use to make pressed light switch plates. I have not used them for some time so there are a few missing pieces... including the 50t press. Also age is preventing me from remembering some of the details. Img_5071 is a close up detail of a abs die. I made this die with pin router attachment and a dremel tool. CNC routing will make a smoother die but unless there is a radical mistake or the stock is thin that level of detail does not transfer. Img_5069 is a full view of the die. Img_5076 is a view of the box I use to press the plate in. The 5/8 plate resting on the top is the "pusher" that the hydraulic ram presses against. Not shown because it is missing, is the rubber blanket that sits between the die/work and the "pusher". The pusher fits relatively tight to the box. img_5078 is the result of a pressing. You need to make the blank larger then needed and then trim the excess. This has to be determined by trial and error. The stock is 24oz copper. Anneal first! Although it is hard to tell from the picture of the die; the cut out where the switch protrudes is under cut slightly. This will actualy punch that section out. Usually this only works fo a few impressions and then you have to pre cut them. To make the under cut I used a router dovetail cutter. If you make your dies from steel they will punch that section out much better. one last thing ... well ... two things. 1) You need to experment a little with rubber density ... I used a piece of rubber belting. Harder rubber will make better detail but will wear ABS dies out much quicker. 2) use soap to lubricate the dies NOT oil or wd40. Lubrication makes much better pressings ! I am sorry I can not find any of my lead or zinc dies, they are better if you have to produce a lot of pressings; as the dies wear out you can just cast new fresh ones. I hope this helps you out a little.

On solid stock ... Cold ... I use a tool steel blade to incise and precision texture. Hot ... I use it to make rivets, upset flatbar along the edge; I am sure that I have only scratched the surface with the hot work.

I have a bit of an explaination here Nibbler I will try to create a few short videos next week demonstrating some of the nibblers abilities.

I have rubber pressed copper ceiling tiles and light switch plates using a cast zinc dies or cnc machined plastic bottom dies. There is plenty of information on rubber pressing on the net. You may even be able to use a press that uses a bottle jack. The capacity of the press is a consideration for large tiles. The advantages are simple setup and simple die production. The dissadvantages are you need a larger blank to limit the formation of wrinkles; so you have to trim. I will try to find some dies from around the shop and send you a picture.

Here is an example of a spindle made with my nibbler. It is forge, cold, from 1" - 0.065 wall tubing.

Tesla Motors

I am glad that you like the articles. here are a couple of more: http://www3.telus.net/public/benowak/SciAmer%20April%2011%201874.jpg http://www3.telus.net/public/benowak/SciAmer%20Aug%2026%201868.jpg brad

I you missed the latest blacksmithing article in Sci Amer. It can be found here (2 pages) -> http://www3.telus.net/public/benowak/SciAmer%20Sept%2021%201895%20-%20page%201.jpg http://www3.telus.net/public/benowak/SciAmer%20Sept%2021%201895%20-%20page%202.jpg Scans are a little large ... brad

Sand and lime can also be used as flux. Sand can be purchased at a masonary store and lime can be purchased at argicultural supply stores. I have not had a huge amount of success with either but I know that they have been used in the past as fluxes

Try an oxygen generator ... found on ebay. It can be used to enrich the o2 mix at the venturi. Also try recycling the waste heat thru a heat exchanger. I have a small forge that I was expermenting with which includes a heat exchanger and a "ribbon burner". I find that it generaly to hot but may be good for making billets. There is also a "drax torch" the principles of the torch could be used in a blacksmiths forge burner: (WO/1999/001698) IMPROVEMENTS IN BURNERS I can not seem to find the book mark I had to "drax torch" document at the USPTO which is very interesting. If I find it I will post it.

Use flux to learn it will make to welding alot easier. I learned to forge weld from a lot of practice. The force of the blow used to create the joint is important. It is difficult to explain the feeling of the blow when you have it right and the weld holds; for an instant the hammer feels as though it is hitting clay then suddenly feels ridged, you will know when you have it right. As you get better you will find that you can get good welds at lowwer temperatures which decreases the likely-hood of burning your work.

Custom Cast, 4340 steel, 400lbs, Very nice ring, very pleasant to work on. My Anvil

Hi all ... new user ... I have been using a large stationary nibbler (Pullmax P5) for hot and cold metal shapping several years. I find this machine to be incredibly versitile and indispensable. I recently purchased a Trumpf CN900 a much larger machine. I am currious if there are other blacksmiths also using such machines and in what capacity. brad