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Everything Mac

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    Soderfors information?

    in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels

    Posted

    On 4 November 2015 at 01:55:10, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

    That is an upside down 3, not a 2.

    Sodefors are great anvils. Mine is 306# and it has a date stamped on it. Look it over carefully, your anvil may also be marked with a date.

    Good call there BGD. I had to turn my head to see it but you're right. 

    Any more pics of the whole anvil Bornking? 

     

    Andy

    side blast breastplate

    in Solid Fuel Forges

    Posted

    Joel, just a thought but what about insulating bricks rather than fire bricks. They would probably do a better job at keeping the heat away from the bosh, which is the idea as I understand it.

    If not I'd just go with the easiest option - some 10mm plate and an air gap.

    Andy

    Finding workshop space to rent?

    in Blacksmiths and Metalworkers Association of the South West UK

    Posted

    Hello,

    I have come back to farming - but am a in Carms so not much use to you, a pity because I have all the kit and could do with the cash.

    I suggest that if you want to get space in someone's outbuildings you have two routes that may offer more success than others.

    First, try posting what you want on thefarmingforum.co.uk, do it in the agricultural matters thread, because everybody reads that. If you want, I could post on your behalf - I'm known on there so it may get a better response, if you want this PM me your contact details and I'll 'phone you.

    Secondly, find out where your nearest agricultural merchants / suppliers are e.g. Wynnstay and put up at least an A4 size add' on their notice boards. Make it stand out!

    Just turning up at the gate isn't going to please most farmers, this is (a) because we are always very busy and, (b) we have so much stuff that can 'go missing' we are always suspicious of people - no insult intended to you, but there a lot of dodgy types around.

    Good luck.

    Hi GNJC, that is a very kind offer indeed. I would be very grateful if you would be kind enough to post a thread about it on my behalf. I'll likely join the forum too as to make it easier anyone does need to get in touch. 

     

    I know what you mean about just turning up at the door, I can assure you it feels very awkward when you do it. I've only spoken to a couple of farmers so far, both were helpful but unable to provide any space sadly. 

     

    I also discovered a local smith who was a very nice chap, he couldn't help on the workshop front but pointed me in the direction of an estate whom I'm waiting to hear back from. 

     

    All the best 

    Andy

    making a froe

    in Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc

    Posted

    image.jpg

    This is the Viking longhouse at the Ancient Technology Centre in Cranborne UK. I helped build this from 2007 to 2010, there are 30,000 chestnut shingles on that roof and I personally made a good few of them. So you'll forgive me if I sound a little arrogant when I say I know a thing or two about using a froe.

    Mild steel will work just fine on anything that is straight grained and soft. But if you have any knots or tough wood it will bend. I can assure you of this as I've done it. 

    Spring steel is the way to go, you don't necessarily need to harden it, but you need the toughness in a froe. 

     

    Cheers 

    Andy

    ^^cant edit. You don't need to harden like a blade, a blue spring temper will do. 

    Well as far as My first tongs...

    in Tongs

    Posted

    Brilliant work Daswulf. A very clear demonstration of your progression. Every set you've made is a huge improvement on the last. Compare your first to your last and there is a huge difference in skill level. I'm impressed. 

    The overall form is good, they look much more sturdy than the first pair. 

    If you can afford it I'd strongly recommend buying the books by Mark Aspery. Certainly volume 1. 

    Andy

    making a froe

    in Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc

    Posted

    I've made a few from springs and used far more than I care to remember. 

     

    A froe needs to be tough, you can't use mild steel as it just bends under any force at all. You should harden your spring but temper it to purple or blue. You do not need to weld the eye of the spring either. 

    As said it doesn't need to be particularly sharp but the back of the froe will often take quite a hammering so the back needs to be softer than the edge. 

    All the best 

    Andy

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