Black Ink

Im having the hardest time finding the instructions on how to post pics can someone send me a link ? Help!!!!

troubles here But if you go to member galleries and punch in blackink you can see them there

If the table faces north south it can become magnetic ,same if there is a lot of welding done on it. you can try hitting it with a hammer "hard" or if you have a welder with long leads you can wrap 'em around and weld for a while if one direction don't work try another.Or the last option is heating it to nonmagnetic.Sorry

Thanks for all your advise ,after weeks of research and scrounging I finally got my forge done I wasn't Impressed with the power I got from It atmospherically so I stuff my wife's hair dryer and a rag in the reducer I could work about 3/4 on 2 pounds . Heres a couple of pics of mail openers I made for friends to break in the new forge please let me know what everyone thinks.

Hillbilly I'm a level 2 xray teck and I can tell you from expierience Ironworkers,fitters,and boilerrats'all though they'll tell you they are the best you ever met.Are not all pros.SOme just got lucky.Please believe me when I tell you.If I was you I'd practice mirror welding on 2'' pipe every chance I got.I was looking at job the otherday 30hr for mirror welders.An ASME9 welding test in the 6g position will get you in the door, but with a mirror will get you paid.$$$$$$$$

I've only used siliconbronze tig wire before,and I recently came across anice piece of 2''od round by 3'' long and I think It would make a sweet soft hammer.could someone send me in the right direction as far as heat signals or should I just machine a hole?tia jason

tiny Im gonna try that

Thanks for the help, jimbob. Very helpful. Will post pictures when it's done.

Thanks for your help guys I,m drunk but I still don't have a forge.

Ya ,that would work.I didnt think of marval.You could use wd on its own.But the red on white contrast takes out the guess work. You can also pick up a real kit from magna flux.I think around $25.00.

welder 19 Its for a gas forge. TIA. I should probably pick some up for heat treat to.

I prefer the stuff made by my not so distant ancestors, Sammy Smith .But I can enjoy a nice Belgium.P.S If you want the name Pour Boy to stick you have to switch to somthing like Natty Ice or Blue Ribbin or Schlitz.Thanks Millsie

Hey, I found aplace to pick upsome grog close by but yhey asked me what size I need.Can anyone help me?

It's rumered that NDT (Non Destructive Testing)was first thought of in the 1800's when man noticed water vibrating out of cracks on railroad tracks when they moved or hit them.Then they realized they can have a better contrast if they mixed kerosene with dirty engine oil and hit it with a hammer.So heres a way to check some scrap or whatever you want before you put hours into a piece to later break a piece off.First you want somehting with low viscosity like wd40 and mix it with something to give it contrast like red food coloring then you need either dry talc or even a thin layer of spray deoderant will work.First clean the part with solvent remover,letdry for 5 min.nextapply penetrant,let sit for 20 min,wipe off with dry rag."If its cast you might want to spray a little cleaner on a rag and give it a quick wipe",then litely apply a thin coat of talc and wait 10 min. If there is a crack youll see it plain as day.Its best to test it on a piece you know is cracked to see the results . I hope I saved one of you from stess later.:)

Can I make the grog myself If I cant find It?Or is there a sub I can find @ home depot.

Igot off my butt and found the answer . BUT ,do I need to use grog?

A good way to keep a liner clean is to take an ear plug and put it between the spool and the rollers

mix dry chocolate with cement . You will notice droppings around the cup clean them up everyday soon the droppings will stop . Now the mouse is gone

Hi,I know you've all seen this question a million times before,but I happened to get 5 bags of fire clay cheap and I have a piece of 16"O.D. pipe.I was gonna weild in some 1/8" round with some V's bent In them.Can anyone tell me the best mixture for the pack ,can it be poured into a mold,and how thick should it be? TIA Jason

Thanks for all your advise.I'm gonna take it into work and have a P.M.I test done on it and find out the material.Then I'm gonna use a welding procedure book that I got from a boiler rat friend of mine.I'll take pics,and keep everyone informed.I might even be able to have a rocwell test done on it ,does anyone know what the hardness should be?

I recently bought a 100 lb. Fisher anvil from 1883. When I bought it, it looked liked it had been badly mistreated. I searched forums and took the most common advice on how to fix the anvil, and now have 3/4 inch long cracks transverse to the weld, a lot of it pre existing in the hardy etc. I noticed them buffing the face with a 80 grit sandpaper, and then did a penetrant test on it. What should I do? Should I just leave it alone, or are these cracks going to keep getting longer? TIA

Hi, my name is Jason and I am a NDT technician. I've also been in metal fabrication for 12 years. Just started blacksmithing and I have an anvil, 100 lb. Fisher from 1883 that I've grown attached to. Looking foward seeing a lot of peoples' ideas and sharing my own.