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I Forge Iron

Chris john

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Posts posted by Chris john

  1. attachicon.gif2 Hawks cropped.jpg

     

    The 2 attached hawks were both wrapped & welded.  They have 1085 bits in them from a plow blade.  The one on top was made from an old wrought iron bolt from a steam engine.  You can still see the dents from the treads along the edge.  The other was made from 1.5 x 5/16 flat stock.  The handles are tapered as are the heads.  The taper was put in the heads with an iron drift.  I had tried to etetch the iron one with micadic acid with little success.

     

    This is the first time I've tried to attach an image, hope it worked.

    Hi Kal

    You pix seem to be ok ,

    Some wrough seems to have better pattern hidden in it some not so good .

    some wrought if you work to much you will loose pattern in it

    keep up the good work ,

    Chris.

  2. It's stuff like that that keeps folks motivated to keep trying.  Very beautiful work.

    Hi Vaugh T

    Thank you very much  for the complements its great if i have motivated somebody  ,couldnt ask for a better complement than that

    appreciate your time to coment keep forging mate.

    Chris 

  3. Very nice.

     

    Out of curiosity how big was the original stock? I've been thinking about trying one and was wondering how much stock I might need so I can either pick some up or dig thru my scrap pile.

    Hi DSW.

    Never measured the piece but you only need enough to forge out a piece about a foot long ,

    quarter thick and about inch and a half wide .

     

    gooo065_zps91a85f07.jpgThe one top left i forged a couple of pieces together  rectangualer and welded on top of each other then forged to size .

    heres a pic before etching .

    oh ive used o1 for cutting edge on these  i think it will be good enough

  4. Hi Momatt

    They are fun to play with this on i put a small T spine on clayed up 

    and water hardened light harmon file scated off edge so they may have used

    what ever steel they had anyway brass wire wrap handle, bit of scratching and a couple of gems inlayed .

    keep  hammering

    Chris.

    post-25508-0-26144300-1369997634_thumb.j

    post-25508-0-89488600-1369997654_thumb.j

    post-25508-0-32294000-1369997707_thumb.j

    post-25508-0-67246700-1369997746_thumb.j

  5. Hi Thomas bet it rubs of with your finger , oh yes it did rub off to reveal the pattern ,

     

    yours may be like putting a blue solution out of a bottle never anygood only

    good if you never touch of course , it was a rub Thomas

     

    .As i said rust blueing is not hot blueing , hot blueing is a caustic solution and the item is held in the solution thats around 270 or more . untill colour is attained there is no rust to convert on the item put in the hot caustic solution shiny no rust .

     

    The old black powder firearms were not boiled they were left  that colour including there damascus barrels ,

    the boiling of rust was used to quicken the blackening .

     How good it was was how much it was rusted or etched and what was used as a etch  .

    Chris

  6. Funny when I did it with my pattern welded material I did NOT have to boil to get the blue/purple/black effects on pattern welded steel. If you cut up a high tannin tree with a nail in it, (oak for example) you also see the blue/black effect with no boiling.

    What were the billet alloys you used when you did this that you had to boil it?

    Boiling it is used with traditional rust hot bluing to convert the oxides.

     
    Nah your wrong  again Thomas hot blueing of firearms is a coustic solution around 270 from memory , not rust blueing at all 
    rust blueing is cold only boiled to convert to black oxide which is used on the most expencive of firearms ,
    as i said japanese tsuba have also use this process for hundreds of years same process converting rust to black oxide but they mainly use the tannings in tea.
    i guess they are wrong too and your right , try boiling that fury black mess you stated you did .or  mix caustic with a few drops of nitric acid  for a  modern look you get
    you get a real shiny black if you polish  before causticing .
    rust blueing will always be a mattish    finish .
    try .
    Chris
     
  7. Japanese sword gaurds or tsuba have used this process for centuries

    for patina

    .Hi Thomas  you have to boil in the tannins.  it converts it to black oxide ,

    The firearms trade also use the rust blueing process where they rust card the barrels or actions

    and boil to convert to black oxide .most shot guns use this as well ,

    if you put a shot gun in the caustic blueing process you end up with 2 barrels the caustic blueing eats the solder away .

     

    Chris

  8. Hi Halps ,
    Lot of great stuff on this forum by many talented people welcome and enjoy .


    Just joined this site . WOW ! What a beautiful piece. Quality and Artistry unsurpassed . I'll be checking any pictures you post . Thank you for some real inspiration to try to create something half as nice.
    Hi Halps glad you like my work you can do it you just have to be keen enough to keep at it .
    Heres a couple more hope you like .
    Chris
    PB190022.jpgPC200021.jpgP2060064-1.jpgP5050099.jpgP1010001-2.jpg
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