Thomas Dean

IMO,the only time you would need to braze stainless is when you are welding the stainless to copper or brass. When we had the alcohol plant running (we made 200proof ethelalcohol) we lined the reactors with copper sheets 4'x8' and welded a stainless strip 2"wide to one end. We then welded the stainless strip to the stainless wall. The reactors were 5'ID approx 30'long and 7"thick. Acid, pressure, & temp. would eat everything but copper and silver. Parts of the inside of these had 99.999% pure silver to protect the walls. Also had 3 spray rings in the quench pot that was made out of 2" sch.80 silver pipe that we rolled into a 28"dia. The hard part of all this was butt welding 1/32" silver sheet to make parts! NO warning when you were about to burn through...just a LARGE hole to fill in. Yeah, I know you probably weren't interested in all this, but...

Howdy from East TEXAS!! and welcome to IFI! Glad to hear from the man we all prayed for and THANK YOU for your service. Sorry to hear that you are so close kin to Sandpile tell him TDean says HOWDY. You are fortunate to have him as an uncle. (You'll get real addicted to this site, so be careful)

I clean after each use. If burning for extended time I will 'fish' out the clinker and continue. I usually will save some coke back for demos as it doesn't smoke as bad but also use green coal. I have found that my fires are easier to tend as well as being hotter. It doesn't take too long to do if you do it every time you lite up. I suppose if you use strickly coke you wouldn't need to clean as often, just fish out clinkers as needed. As far as starting the fire I use a couple of pine cones. We live on 60+ acres of pine and hard wood so the cones are in abundance. I have used Sweetgun balls also. both work great. Our pine cones are not the large ones like up north, usually 2-4"dia. and 3-6" long. 1 match, 2 pine cones, handfull of coke/coal BINGO! Ready to have fun!

Ditto Frosty. You can do more by blacksmithing than welding. (and I've been welding since '73!) Your work will be more appealing to the eye. "I'm interested in producing artistic garden gates and trellis type objects to start out with, and see where it goes from there." Pretty ambitious for starting out. May I suggest some smaller pieces, check the BPs, then 'grow' into the larger projects. All above is MOO. (my opinion only) Good luck and keep us informed how it goes with ya.

I haven't built one YET!! but the ones that the 4states iron munchers (texarkana,tx) group built they used 1"x4" flat and welded up the side for the anvil. (I think this was the only change they made.)Cheaper than the 4"rd and works just as good. I was able to get a 3 1/2ft piece of 4"rd at $0.04 per/LB! Friend was selling some 'scrap' and I unloaded what I could before he hauled it to the scrap yard, he was getting the 4cents and said I could pay the same. Put 1600# in the back of my 1/2 ton F-150!!

At 11:38 Central time still no bids....DUH!!!! I paid $60.00 for a 105# Hay Budden, $100--146#PW, $50--125#Acme, $325--185# Hay Budden. I have 3 other anvils that I paid less than $100 total. They are out there, keep looking. Ebay anvils would be a LAST resort for me.

Have you considered building an "A" frame? It can be 8ft wide and have a trolly for the chain falls. I don't think I would use a wire come-a-long. I just don't trust them. (cable breaks, slips, yada, yada, yada) Good for some things true but not for lifting and holding weight. (MOO>>my opinion only<<) I agree with clark-kentski, your 6x6 has enough to do, and jimmy seale has an EXCELLENT point.

FWIW, if you want to "clean/wipe" your wire before it goes through the liner just use the filter off of a cigarrett. (it's really the best use for one anyway ) If you can, keep the wire covered, don't allow the wire to get dirty from what's in the air. I use a short piece of hose between the spool and the drivers on my machine at work. My personnal machine (at home) is a Miller 250X and the wire is inside so no problem. If your machine can run .045 flux core/dual shield and you don't have the correct liner and drivers just loosen off on the drivers. It will work, just takes some tweaking time to get the rollers to the correct tension. (of course you have to use the correct size tips)

33+ years in the welding trade and still learning! The field changes SO STICKIN FAST! Welding on some 2205 Duplex Stainless today for a pressure vessel, fun. Education, education, education, it will pay for itself in no time. Good luck and BE SAFE!! Welding can be very dangerous, both to the welder and from the end product if the weld is of poor quality.

Excellent points KjZitur. One step further, an oxygen valve has an open seat and closed seat. When you open the cyl. open the valve ALL the way as it needs to seat in the "open" position, don't just open part way. BE SAFE!

Howdy Primtechsmith. I checked it out and looks good so far. It said I was the FIRST visitor to the site....that can't be true. Can't wait to see the Gallery when there are some pictures. The Hammer-in sounds fantastic but just a tad bit too far for me. I'm just east of Longview, TX!! Anyways, congrats on a nice looking site, I've put in in my favorites to keep tabs on ya.

#1--Victor, it a toss-up as far as #2&3 go Harris or Smith. All three are excellent torches and will serve you well. Cyl. bottles are expensive if you purchase them. 4yrs ago I bought my ox-acy bottles for $325.00, that for the pair and they are the small bottles. I have since found them at 2 differant garage sales and now have 3 complete sets. (Paid $130 for 1 and $75.00 for the other, bottles included!) GET EDUCATED!! examples: there is a proper way to open an oxygen bottle, it will save your life if you do it right! Also proper storage of bottles. If you build your own cart you need to put a divider between the bottles that extends above the gauges. Good luck and BE SAFE!!!

YAHOO for YOU!! Our Son-in-Law is a CPA. Quite an accomplishment you have made.

I bought a 12# bar last March and paid $2.62lb for it! Scrap is over $3.00lb, closer to 3.50 now and going up! I have a friend in the sheetmetal/roofing business and they were paying around $32.00 for a 3'x10' sheet a year ago, it is $165-175.00 now. This is 16oz. copper, the kind you use for gutters and such. So what am I saying?? Carry a LOT of $$. It is to the point that new construction jobs are hiring security to protect the copper pipes and wiring until it is covered. Theives are stripping it out of houses and other buildings as soon as it is installed!

HUH?!?! What did you just say? HOWDY from East TEXAS!! Welcome Stephangleissner, Hope you enjoy the site.

HEY Jr. thanks for posting that pic of the tong clip,( saved me form having to!)I was told that a gentleman from N.M. developed this clip, gave one to Francis Whitaker and Mr. Whitaker said that he (Mr. Whitaker) believed it prolonged his smithing carrer by no less than 20yrs. I have several of them along with the type Mr. Hofi & (Tom Clark) makes. Love them both. (The gentleman's name is Joe Whiton)

No, my friend, I haven't forgotten. NEVER will. I have seen this picture before but thanks for sharing it again.

MAN, you must be taking some CRAZY drugs!! I don't see anything moving!! Yeah, I really do. pretty neat. Thanks for sharing.

Not real sure I will be able to make it as we have a MAJOR shutdown during that week in our plant. I work for Texas Eastman which is part of Eastman Chemicals Co. I work there to pay the bills and blacksmith BECAUSE I LOVE IT!!!!! Not into making REAL knives, YET, but in the furure hope to.

So-Steve, rebar is a very fickle material to work with. You may be able to work one piece then try something else from a different joint and it goes to pot! been there done that. If possible go to a scrap yard and explain to the 'man in charge' just what you would like to do....walk through the yard and find some scrap to work with. Tell them what you do and why you want to purchase the scrap. (they may drop their jaw or ask if you shoe horses! hehe) The cost will be minimal (pennies per lb.) and you can usually find mild steel that you can use. Make sure to take gloves, hard hat, and safety glasses, also let them know you have these items, it gives them a sense of security that you will be safe! Not every scrap dealer will let you in or sale you scrap but don't give up, they are out there. The next time you go you might think about taking something as a gift---hat/coat hook, triangle bell, leaf key-fob, most anything to show appreciation and it will get you in a lot easier! Also on anvilfire there is a "demo" on how to make a "Cleft note" chime, I will use rebar on this item occasionally and it has a nice ring to it when finished. (music teachers LOVE them and they sale good) Well, I've rambled long enough. Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

HOWDY from EAST TEXAS! and welcome to IFI! Glad you came aboard and look forward to seeing some of your work. You have a BUNCH of awesome smiths within spittin distance of you. Bill and Diana Davis of LazyAssForge in Fletcher, Gerald Franklin just out of Duncan, and Larry Mills as best as I remember there in Norman! Just a few that come to mind. Check out Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, GREAT folks! Saltfork Craftsmen Artist-Blacksmith Association Home Page Blacksmithing in Oklahoma tongs swage blocks anvils coal smithing forge forges metal wrought iron should get you there. Are you going to be in Grapevine on Sept. 30 for the KGA show there? Friend of mine from Dalhart, TX sent me an email about it. Looks interesting to say the least! Anyway, WELCOME and hope to learn from ya.

Doggoneit man PLEASE don't call me "MR", makes me sound older and wiser than I am. hehe. (I was MR. DEAN when I taught martial arts, but that was a while back) Now with MR. IRNSRGN and MR. WOOLRIDGE, that's appropriate. I agree with the 2 of them on the reason for the "ears" now that it was mentioned, makes better since.

Howdy Seamus and welcome to IFI! As to your ?'s, I believe they are designed to protect the screw from miss/glancing hammer blows. BUT I sure could be wro...er mistaking... BTW, where ya from? East Texas boy here.

Howdy from EAST TEXAS!! and welcome to IFI!! Like you stated, this place is generous to share thier knowledge and heck you even have to ask for it sometimes! Glad ya came aboard and we too look forward to many discussions.

Thank you for the picture! MAY GOD BLESS ALL OUR SERVICE MEN AND WOMEN AS WELL AS OUR GOVERNMENT. PROUD TO BE AN AMERICAN