David Einhorn

I have sent out at least six messages in the past two weeks about where to find anvils and other tools in our area. - In one case the person procrastinated for days until "5 minutes" after the anvil was gone. - Same person could not walk two blocks from house to antique mall where blacksmith tools could be found. - Same person could not manage to attend this week's blacksmith meeting to network with smiths, and find leads to tools and classes. - And at least two other private messages to folks who were "desperate" to find anvils, but apparently not desperate enough to contact the person with anvils or otherwise pursue the information. I know of four anvils in good shape and very reasonably priced at less than $2 per pound, in some cases about $1.50 per pound, within a half mile of where I work, have informed people about them. Those anvils were still there when I stopped by during lunch time today. I have tried to help people on this forum that have expressed frustration about their inability to find usable affordable anvils. Bottom line is that I am baffled, and a bit frustrated. :confused:

Taking the course greatly increased my confidence in forge welding. Two main things that I learned about welding a stack of steel from Rob's course is to clean the metal before it is cut and stacked, and to know when the stack is at the correct temperature. Rob had us grind the billet clean prior to cutting and stacking. If you do that as well as fluxing well with borax and getting it hot enough, then tap the stack together you should be fine. Start taping from your end and progress to the far end. Remember the trick is to stick the liquid surfaces together, and hitting it too hard will make the pieces bounce apart. If you don't get the metal hot enough, what sometimes happens is that the surfaces are "glued" together by the borax and not really welded, in which case you can peel the two pieces apart in a vise. Dave E.

Taking courses can greatly accelerate the learning process. Rob Hudson was generous and taught a course in pattern welding at the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland (BGCM) a few years back. It was one of the best investments of time and money that I ever made. Everyone, without exception, left the course with a pattern welded blade that they made. Link to article on Rob Hudson: http://swordforum.com/summer99/robhudson.html

Sounds like a great learning experience. It would help to know the diameter of the rod that you are using. The assumption is that you are using mild steel that is less than 1/2" diameter. In that case you might consider bending the scrolls *gasp* cold as that would make keeping the bends smooth easier as you would not have differences in temperature/softness.

Absolutely fascinating features for a gas forge. Is there any chance that Mr. Hofi would consider posting some blueprints detailing his innovations in the blueprint section?

Very interesting, especially the second knife. Thank you for sharing.

Welcome to the forum. Valhalla is likely too far to commute to any of the blacksmithing guilds, and classes, and will likely limit our ability to recommend places to acquire stuff for blacksmithing, or fellow smiths that you could visit. If you ever move from Valhalla to some place on earth we would be better able to assist you in recommending resources. Give my regards to Sva

As always, the monthly meeting of the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland will be held in the Blacksmithing School Building on the grounds of the Carroll County Farm Museum, 500 S. Center St Westminster, MD. Visitors are always welcome. There is no charge to come and visit at the meeting. Meet smiths, and knifesmiths, ask questions, see stuff made. The lunch is pot luck.

Extremely nice. What calculation did you use to compensate for sag?

Excellent point. That is using your head!

I have had them over the years, probably more often than I needed just to be sure.

Looks to me more like a finial than a tool, as it seems more decorative than functional. I don't recognize the language of the lettering. Maybe Klingon? :D

Since the anvil has vanished from the listing on Craigslist, I would conclude that it has been sold. Someone got a very good deal!

Jymm, I greatly admire you and your fine work, and have confidence that you are properly covered. The large fittings on the carriage are very unlikely to fail. However, I would be concerned about liability if a person was making parts for a hand-held pistol or rifle, or the "tube" for a canon for sale, as it appears that is when the liability concerns appear.

The answer of what forge is right for you depends on what you can afford, the skills and equipment that you already have. If money is short and you don't have access to welding equipment, then a break drum forge is workable. If you can afford a cast-iron firepot than I would recommend that. If money is short buy you have access to pieces of scrap plate and access to welding equipment, then you could weld up a firepot and forge. For a more definitive answer, we would need to know: - Where you live; change your profile to show where - What you can afford - Access to welding, tools, and fabricating equipment - Your skills in fabricating

Bad posture among smiths tends to come about from having the anvil too low. Anvils used to be placed at a height that allowed strikers to use sledge hammers. Positioning the anvil at the proper height so that he does not need to bend over is likely your best solution. I also recommend a Hofi ergonomic hammer for your fiance.

The recommendations provided as answers to your questions are certainly excellent ones. However, I have also heard people say many times that one first should learn to develop skills in hand hammering. Depending on how close to an absolute beginner you are, you may wish to first work on your hand hammering skills and your understanding of safety. When you do use a powerhammer remember: - to point the hot iron so that if it is squeezed out of the dies that the hot iron bar will shoot past you and not into your body. - never clean scale off the dies with your hand, always use a brush if you value your hand. - always keep the piece level so that it does not flip up into your face when struck. - if you use tongs make sure that they are a really good fit and grip on the iron.

Setting a price on your work: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/how-do-you-set-price-your-work-11287/

The larger/heavier the anvil the larger hammer and larger project that you can make. There is a formula for the ratio of hammer to anvil that perhaps someone will provide you. It is said that Francis Whitaker used a ~137 pound anvil. Others swear by much larger anvils. Personally I use a pair of approximately 100 pound anvils for away-from-home demonstrations and a large anvil for my shop anvil. Other considerations apply such as the brand/quality. The Fisher anvil in York that I found on Craigslist is an excellent brand and from the photo the edges and face look to be close to pristine condition. A Fisher anvil of that condition and size could easily sell in our area for twice or more the asking price. An 80 to 100 pound anvil of good quality would be more than adequate for a first anvil, especially for a young person that is likely to change residences.

Great! Now walk down the street to the Fayetteville Antique Mall and look at what is available for low cost blacksmith tools. I believe they are open till 5pm. Talking and reading is fine, doing is better.

Liability is much too high. My insurance agent specified no gun parts, no toys, and no furniture, as the liability insurance would cost in the 5 figures each year.

Found this on Craigslist: 100 pound anvil for $150. Not far from where you live. It looks in pretty good condition. 100 lb. anvil ---SHER

I visited your profile, before you said you were female, to see if you were a kid or an adult so as to better understand who we were trying to assist, and to tailor answers accordingly. I often check peoples profiles in the hope of tailoring answers. There are several mental health clinics in Gettysburg. The Adams County MHMR office would likely pay for visits if she has low income. You don't need to bring any money. Coming to the meeting is free. Talking to smiths and bladesmiths is free. Lunch is potluck, if you want to bring a dish or desert that is your option. Access to equipment area is limited to members because of liability issues. Starting off you can use the equipment at a club, museum, or friend. The president of the Thadeus Steven's society said, about a week or so ago, that they are looking for someone to demonstrate at the Thadeus Steven Blacksmith shop down the street from you. Smiths (other than myself, I guess) can also guide you in low cost smithing, the BGCM sells bags of coal at cost. BGCM and PABA and its members welcomes visitors to its meetings. There is no cost and no commitment. You are welcome to bring your fiance and your mother to anywhere you go. As you appeared ready to fly or move to Texas, I extrapolated that you were ready to drive down the road to learn about the craft.

You could try sinking hot metal into it as a bowl swage.

The classes with the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland are excellent. You will learn in one weekend more than you would by experimenting on your own for months. Just my opinion, but an opinion that I have formed over more than 35 years as a hobby smith. I found classes *extremely* helpful, especially to: 1) get started 2) learn about knifemaking 3) learn forge welding 4) learn tool making, hardening and tempering 5) learn about making pattern-welded knife blades (sometimes referred to as Damascus). 6) learn about safety You would also have the opportunity to try out equipment to see if you like it. I once made the mistake of buying an Arc Welder prior to taking a course, and afterward I looked forward to it breaking so that I could purchase a different one.