David Einhorn

How about this guy. I can't figure out what he is trying to do in this video.

They are likely always by a water source and tend to be under mountains rather than just underground. The water source would differentiate by area I'd assume, some areas having large underground lakes while other having rivers. Given that they could build a machine to do it they could even build something like a horizontal or vertical well....

An underground stream can drive a wood or metal water-wheel. The water-wheel driving a clock mechanism is controlled by an "escapement"
- http://videos.howstuffworks.com/howstuffworks/15-how-pendulum-clocks-work-video.htm
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Escapement

I suggest not over-thinking and not over-complicating the measurement of time.

It took me a few years to figure out how to use floor mandrels, but once I got the knack of using them they because indispensable, especially when I got around to making hub bands for the wooden wheels for my Traveling Forge. Swage blocks and mandrels I feel are handy for making spoons, bowls, chisels, gouges, bands, and various sized rings, etc. For me, using them is rather addictive. Once I got used to using swage blocks and mandrels, I would now find it difficult to do without them.

Here are some "side blast" forge images. To help clarify conversation the term side blast usually refers to air being blown into the forge, and side draft usually refers to air leaving the forge through the side arrangement of the flue opening.

From left to right the images are:
- On the far left, plans for the forge shown in the image of the forge on the far right.
- A patent for a portable army forge that is very similar to the image of an earlier naval forge shown in the picture from the Monitor Leigh.
- A U.S. government drawing of a mid-1800s portable forge used by the U.S. Army.
- A picture of a forge being used on the Monitor Leigh circa 1863.
- A picture of a wheeled mid-1800s U.S. Army "Traveling Forge" that I built over a four year period.
- Picture of the forge I built that is shown in the drawing on the far left, inspired by the photo of the Monitor Leigh, but not an exact copy. Sorry I don't have a picture of it finished.

Thank you for posting. The forge looks impressive. If the flue is of sufficient diameter then my guess is that smoke would have been handled very nicely.

Very nice video, thank you for sharing.

.... I'd be happy if I could estimate material well enough to get the tines on a fork that even.....

Examining the photos, it sort of looks like he chisels or otherwise cuts a rough blank, then drills and cuts the tines to width. Each tine appears to terminate at a drill hole. Then it appears that he draws out the handle, and then rounds up the tines one at a time.

So the steps from the video seems to be:
1) Cut a flat bar stock to length. (try 1.25" by 3/16" by 6" or 7" long)
2) Cut an indentation and taper where the fork meets the handle using either a chisel or saw.
3) Drill holes where the tines terminate.
4) Cut slits separating the tines using either a chisel or saw.(to make matching spoons skip steps 3 and 4)
5) Take stack of fork blanks to demonstration.
6) Draw out and shape the handle
7) Round up the tines.

I told the last person that asked, that I'm willing to accept period prices if they are willing to pay in period, earlier than 1866, coinage. :lol:

http://coins.about.com/library/US-coin-values/bl-US0001-Indian-Head-Penny-Values.htm

....As well larger water wheels would make for time pieces.....

I like the water wheel(s) idea as a time piece. Provide a hammer powered by water wheel. The water wheel will provide a consistent measure of time since it turns at a predictable rate.

I find it hard to imagine that anyone would let him near fire, tools or a sharp object. He needs to be limited to Lego brand toy tools until he grow up a bit.

Thank you, David. That makes sense. Sorry for the dummy question; I appreciate you taking the trouble to post those links.

Crunch, thank you for asking the question. I think it is a very good question and also an important question towards people learning not only how to protect their equipment, but also how to use the various parts of the anvil efficiently.

There is also a difference between hammering near the edge versus using the edge of the anvil as a swage, cutoff tool, or bending tool (no I don't recommend using the edge as a cutoff tool, but have seen it done). But that would be another thread of discussion entirely.

Since you are in East Virginia (I will have to borrow the term "East Virginia, that is great) you might wish to visit one of the area blacksmithing guilds, and even take a course or two. If you manage to get up to visit the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland [bGCM] http://www.bgcmonline.org/ we would be happy to show you a few tricks and answer any questions that you might have. If you join the quild, you will have access to the equipment as well as a lot of knowledgeable smiths that would be happy to stand with you by a forge and share information. If you let me know when you plan on visiting, I will make an extra effort to be there also.

If I may be of further assistance, feel free to use the PM feature of this forum and I will provide you with an email address.

.........
What do you mean by this? I am a rank newbie at blacksmithing, so I don't know. Would it be preferable to work the metal closer to the horn or heel of the anvil, and if so, why?........

It is called working on the edge of the anvil. Here is someone who posted an explanation.
- see figure 6 in http://www.oldworlda...proper_use.html
- and paragraphs 1, 2 and 3 in http://www.oldworlda...er_control.html
----
and on page 12, illustration 2b versus illustration 6b in the pdf http://www.abana.org...ging/CHF_24.pdf what happens with drawings.

Does anyone find it painful to watch him spending so much energy hitting the center of the anvil?

Very very nice!

As always, Thomas makes a lot of good sense, riveting is a good way to go.

If you wish to try two somewhat more difficult methods you can:
1) Take a larger piece of stock and either draw out the handle, or draw out enough of the handle to allow you to forge weld the stub to a longer and narrower handle than the ladle part.
2) Or you can enlarge the end of the stock by either upsetting or forge welding. For example, you can roll up or fold over one end, forge weld the resulting mass into one lump, then you have enough material to forge the end out into a ladle or spoon.

For better or worse, there tends to be numerous ways to smith stuff. Ask 20 different smiths and you might end up with 20 different answers. ;-)

A possibly useful tidbit..... the various military books/references for the 17th through 19th centuries tend to refer to wheeled forge carts and wagons as "traveling forges" while small non-wheeled forges tend to be referred to in references and in the Internet, and in Patent searches, as "portable forges". So... well... when looking for historical information, that might make your search easier.

I have built a version of the 1863 U.S. Naval Forge and have used it at the local museum, and it worked nicely. Documented at: http://www.facebook....146477635399321 After field testing it, I will likely be upgrading some of the parts to make it easier to set up, and possible make a water box between the bellows nozzle and the fireback to keep the bellows nozzle cool. So much to do, so little time. ;-)

Yes, it was done. American Civil War, the naval forges were very similar but done in iron, and other forges have been made using both wood and/or iron.

Here are a couple of forges that are supported by wood.

1. On the left---A wooden "box" forge Pettersburg during the American Civil War. These forges were wood boxes with dirt lining the bottom. The air entered the side, which makes the forge a "side blast" forge.
2. The center photographs----A reproduction American Civil War wheeled Traveling Forge. The iron fireplace sits in a wooden frame/carriage. It too is a side blast forge. The iron fireplace has a 1/2" air space between the fireplace's box and the wood frame.
3. On the right-----A reproduction medieval wooden forge. Again essentially a side blast forge originally constructed from wood.

Photos can be found here:
http://www.iforgeiro...ed-forge-stand/

And here is a naval forge, and a American Civil War Portable forge, etc.

Wrought Iron Balconies in New Orleans
http://architecture.about.com/od/periodsstyles/ss/creole_9.htm

Wow, wonderful acquisition!

I like the dish the way it is, so I would suggest not adding feet, just a clear mat finish and call it done.

It looks nice.

Apparently different books on that subject are available as a free EBook downloads: http://books.google....id=TZkBAAAAYAAJ
http://books.google.com/books?id=kaxuRb1qSdcC&printsec=frontcover&dq=farm+shop+book&source=bl&ots=5K3WC_GsZl&sig=ndpG9-N1G6e2C_QNily8hHOH1Lc&hl=en#v=onepage&q&f=false

Thank you for sharing!

A book that I would recommend for your consideration is:

40 Power Tools You Can Make (Woodworking Classics Revisited) [Paperback]
Linden Publishing (Author)
“Originally published by Popular Mechanics in 1941, this classic manual is a testament to the ingenuity and dedication of American craftsmen. The collected projects, written by various craftsmen, demonstrate how to build a 10-inch thickness planer, a “swing saw” (or cut-off saw), and a hand-built hydraulic press, in addition to drill presses, jigsaws, sanders, bending brakes, band saws, a wood lathe, and many other useful machines. All of these machines are built with simple and highly available materials, and every project is accompanied by the original instructions, illustrations, and measured drawings. In addition, this vintage reprint offers its readers a unique look into a period in American history—when materials and labor were stretched thin, and American craftsmen were forced to “bootstrap” solutions out of the bare essentials available to them.” http://www.amazon.co...l you can build

· Paperback: 96 pages
· Publisher: Linden Publishing; Reprint edition (December 1, 2008)
· Language: English
· ISBN-10: 1933502207
· ISBN-13: 978-1933502205
· Product Dimensions: 9 x 6 x 0.2 inches

I always enjoy talking to folks interested in history, so take a close look at the different mounting bracket on the same type/size of vise as shown in these photos. :lol: