scott.livesey

thanks, question answered a bit. use a tight fit and JB Weld. MIG would not bother blade, bolsters are for a large cleaver that would be heated to temper point(350F) before starting. area to be welded is over 2" above start of bevel. Hardest part is finding the right wire in quantities less than 25lbs. blade is made of 5/32" sheffield O1. class was interesting, but, the only place I use ATF is my truck transmission. Canola oil is a much safer alternative to Parks AAA or other commercial quenchants. thanks, a tired old sailor with ADD

hi, I have some 954 bronze scrap from the office I would like to use for bolsters on a knife. other than glue, how would you attach the bolsters. smallest 954 round stock I have found is 1/2" which is way too bid. da book say you can't use oxy-acethlyne or gas and braze. dont have TIG available. thanks in advance.

is important to remember we are talking steel not wood. there is no grain direction in steel, especially after it has been hot rolled, cut, cold rolled, cut, then ground and sent to your supplier. what appears to be grain on a sheet of steel is grind marks. i purchased a large sheet of 80CrV2, cut several blanks top to bottom, then cut the balance left to right. no difference in performance or how the blades machined. an old Schuler warrior

seen cryo treatment, liquid nitrogen or helium, recommended by Carpenter and Crucible for their "HI TECH" steels, CPM S110V, CPM 3V ,ect...... not the sort of steel we would hand forge. they recommend doing cryo between the first and second temper. Has there been any kind of study as to what cryo treatment would do for more ordinary steel like 1084 or 1095? scott

part of the puzzle is how to attach the head to a handle. will take some pix of A2 pieces and post so i can get help.

will be using the hatchet for basic wood working, mostly red oak and maple(removing bark and fine splitting). the reason for using A2 is cost, none in this case. material has already been heat treated to 60hrc.

How well would A-2 tool steel work for a single bevel hatchet? I have several pieces from the office(obsolete tooling) that already have the start of a single bevel. what would be the best angle for the edge? any suggestions on attaching a handle?

what would be a good starting point for a "bowl adze"? is the steel in a pick/mattock high enough in carbon so it can be hardened? final product will have a single bevel and about a 60 degree angle from handle. thanks in advance for your help.

changing subject slightly, how would A2 work for a single bevel ax or hatchet? have several pieces(outdated tooling from work) that already have a bevel or the start of one. any suggestions on making a handle?

hi, new to bladesmithing. looking to make knives and tools that i cant afford to buy. have never done small scale forging. I take care of a Schuler F2 1600 ton press for a living.