poundhound

I am working the next few days but can put a tutorial up by the end of the week. I had read a lot from people who use electro etching, and ferric chloride, and tried both but found the way I have been doing it to get the most consistant results with the easiest way to get the resist on the metal. this also has the advantage of using just a sharpie pen for touching up the resist if not a complete transfer.

I got the instructions for the acid solution from this web site. http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/ basically I guessed a little, in their instructions the muriatic acid was about twice the concentration that I got from home depot. so I doubled that. Magazine paper is just what it says, pages from a magazine which are a little shiny and thin paper seems to work the best. I just print on them with a laser printer or make a copy on them with a copier with toner. You cant use inkjet ink. the toner has plastic in it so it melts onto the metal as a resist. the link below does the same thing but with photo paper, but I found the magazine paper was cheaper, easier to remove and leave a good print. on some printers I have to use a carrier paper so the very thin magazine paper does not jam the printer. http://steampunkworkshop.com/electroetch.shtml the cool thing about this is once you are done add a soda can (or aluminum foil) to the mix and it dissolves the aluminum then you are left with aluminum chloride (same thing as in underarm deodarants) and the copper precipitates out. Unlike other etching methods where you are left with getting rid of the solutions which are toxic. if interested I can put in a tutorial with step by step on how I do it. Pound Hound

Hello, I am not sure if this is the correct place but I have taken to etching copper and brass for some plaques / signs I am making and have got the process down where I am getting some pretty good results. but this was done cold so I thought it might be of interest. I transfer the resist from some magazine paper I printed on using a laser printer, using an iron. After putting it in a solution of murianic acid and peroxide and leaving it there for an hour here is the results. I can get very good detail in the pictures. Pound Hound

do you have a belt sander to finish you blades? I have been doing it by hand. I have been looking around at belt sanders. I found a porter cable at lowes with a 4 inch wide belt. is that too wide for blade making? On the fourm most mention a 2 inch wide belt. poundHound

I like the shape of the blade as well as the finish on it. What would di you use for the handle? PoundHound

I would have made it bigger, but the hole in the middle of the mower blade, where it attached to the mower was in the way and limited how long I could get the piece of steel to start with. So I cut it in half diagonally to avoid the hole. I have another piece about the same size as in the first picture. I may make a bowie knife out of that. should be able to get about a 7 inch blade and then 5 inch handle. This one has a blade width of about 2.5 inches. In the bowie knife 1.5 to 1.75 inches might be the correct proportion. working on getting it sanded (by hand) now, then just need to hone the edge and make a handle. Hope to have it done in a day or so. I can see by making this one setting up some jigs to hold the knife during the different steps would be very helpful. Will have to make them for the next one. PoundHound

lawnmower blade, cut in half. the first picture shows the blade just cut in half fresh from the lawn mower, it was a riding mower, after that I cut and ground the blade to shape. I want to make wood handles, I don't know how thick each piece of wood should be for each side. PoundHound

here is my first attempt at a knife made from 1/2 of a lawn mower blade. I am working on the edge. I am now working on the edge shaping and sharpening. I have to make the handle, How thick should I make the wood for each side? Pound Hound

thank you all for the information. I will find a torch and give it a try. look like it can add some pizzazz to a rod shape. poundhound

I saw this piece done by a blacksmith Joff Hopper. I like the twist pattern he does in the metal. I am sure it has been covered here in the forum already, but with some searching I could not find it. can anyone tell me what this twist is called and the steps to creating it? PoundHound

this one is about 8 inches in length, I did not measure the height, I just did it to scale by eye. I was thinking of make one out of copper, i have made blue patina on copper using salt water and ammonia. I thought it might look cool on a fish. here is the color on a leaf

I got a variety pack they had (I live close enough I stopped at their facility). So I don't know if they offer the smaller sample pack, but seems like I have red, black, green, purple, and blue. they all have come out nice so far. I have also used some of their waxes and the Japanese brown like I mentioned before. as for the price a little goes a long way. the only thing I have had to replace after two years is the clear coat, and I am sure if I was more careful could have gotten away with using way less. In their showroom they have sample pieces done in their stains, with different colors etc. The stuff looks amazing. They apply more then one product to make really cool looking finishes. I am just using the product simply but it still come out good. here is the green wax on an alligator I did PoundHound

It is a metal stain I get from sculpt sculpt nouveau here is a link to their website and smart stains. but I use some of their other products, like their clear guard sealer over the top of plain metal or the stain as in this case. I have gotten complements on the finish when I have used their Japanese brown also. http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=84&category=6 I like finishing my metal this way rather than just primer and paint.

Here is a quick afternoon project I did for a friend. He wanted a fish to put on his fishing pole holder. So I built this for the side. I just cut out some 12ga (I think) steel, using a angle grinder and cutting wheel, to rough shape, then heating in the forge and using some chisels, I cut to final shape and put on the design. Then I used some red and black metal stain for color. I think it came out ok, may make a few more for yard or wall decorations. PoundHound

when I am done I use a red metal stain to make them red

looks like stainless steel, and i know that stainless is used in other cooking instruments so it should be safe for food.

here is a different cheese slicer

I found this cheese slicer which looks fun to make on etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/95232560/1-cheese-slicer-made-by-blacksmith-hand

who's side are those guys on?

Freeman: I tried to copy your knots today but made them too tight. any advice on getting the proportions correct? and how to know to make the bend when so it is on the flat part of the bar? (tutorial, hint, hint)

I took a look at that site and here is a picture of the leaf created by TeresaS. the key to the beauty of it seems to come from two things, the straight lines from the stem to the ends of the leafs, also the leafs are not just flat but seem to bend/move in a natural way.

I have been struggling trying to strike my work by balancing it on the anvil (I tried the between the leg hold, doesn't work for me). anyone have a good design for a hold down clamp, my anvil does have a hardy hole. PoundHound

Freeman, thank you very much for the quick reply and the Great!!! tutorial. your leaf looks great. I was starting with round stock, I will try it with bar stock as you showed. looks like you are using maybe 2 inch by 1/4 inch stock. PoundHound

hello, I have been trying to make a ginkgo leaf key chain for my friend. However, I am having trouble making the leaf shape, it is very broad at the top and then tapers to the base. I know how to taper the base, but don't know how to make the top of the stock wide enough. does anyone have a good ginkgo leaf they make, and can show me the steps? any help appreciated.