Kenny O

Sort of like a stake anvil?. I was thinking of cutting one right in half through the eye and end up with two half round bottom swedge, then fit em to the hardy.

Yes, I discovered that, but thanks for that bit of datum that I have heard no where else. I have two anvils one Hardy hole is 7/8 one is 15/16, when I formed a hardy in each, I looked at the shapes, one looked more like a parallelogram. Maybe I'm just gullible, I assumed the holes would be equilateral.

Good idea for one of the hammers, I am going to cut the rough edge off of the broken coupler and put it on end, for an eleven inch square anvil. The other end of the coupler rings like a bell, I probably wont hit that much with a hammer. The 200 pounder with the 12'' through hole I am not sure what purpose it would best serve, maybe cut it in half, and the sheeps foot, well I guess I could make a sculpture of a three legged sheep.Of the slices of rail I have seen hardys made. I have been making more tools lately than anything else. Any suggestions would be nice, what else can be made of those hammers? could they be forged?

Thanks for the generous offer, I haven't found anyone around Medford to hammer with. There was someone in Central Point but I don't remember his name. I would enjoy hookin up for some forging.

I had to have this. It looks as if it might be for use with a power hammer. Is it incomplete?

An acquaintance at BNSF let me go through the scrap box. Some of it is from a three engine collission. The pry bars are called a "sheep's foot ", or a "dromedary toe" by some. In my area of Az., they are Navajo named, thus the sheep origin.

I just Googled Timberlock screws, I haven't heard of them. So, they are stronger than a lag screw of the same diameter? putting it on a stump would be good if the screws wont break .

I have taken on a project from Mark Asperys book Vol l, I needed to make some bottom tools, but I 'm sure I would end up crackin my anvil if I tried to do any heavy smooshing, it's only a 125# Trenton. Anyhow here are the steps I took and where I am today What I am unsure about is the stand, should It be a stump, or should I fab up a tripod of sorts. do I drill holes to mount it, or have it fasten without putting holes in it? If I make the stand of steel do I weld it to the stand? Too many options. In case anyone wants to know the plate is 6" x 7" x 1.50" thick , the Hardy hole is 0.9375" (15/16").

Thanks for the feedback. It is good incentive, I have been thinkin about what kind of hanger to make for it. What I have learned , in the short time I have been smithing, is that I spend more time making tools than actually producing the product. I guess as I progress, I will accumulate the basics. Just an observation.

The height of the tuyere and the floor of the pan are incongruous, in the original version, what would fill the space, refractory, bricks? I am going to put some S.S. sheet in the bottom, where it has rusted through, and some new hardware here & there.

Thanks! It actually sounds way better than expected for mild steel. The wood mixed media thing sounds like a deal! I made many feet of bar joist for a bowling alley in Snowflake AZ, I have about 50 foot of 3/4 round (remnant) that is paid for. Forging it (3/4) in my forge is harder than I guessed. I have a coal forge , but it needs work, that's another topic.

Always do drawings and engineering before any job, it saves time, $ ,and lots of cuss words that could be used for injuries. Take this cart for instance, can you notice the discrepancy? Without the forge on the cart the bottle tips it over, the solution ; I will put a wheel under it, the bottle rack. I am not done yet . Painting is a drag, but necessary in Oregon. Brush is better than spray , for myself. more design suggestions welcome.

I was looking for the "Correct formula" for the proper Triangle bell, well I just winged it. I would not recommend using 3/4 round. I used major propane. I have yet to make the clanger.or the decorative hanger. Should the hanger be made of 3/4 as well? maybe I will make it out of barbed wire that's easy to bend.Thanks for checkin' it out

I don't think I have seen one go that high before, the camera man lost track of it!!! LOL Unfortunately there's a commercial first... http://youtu.be/2KIqOmeHCU4

It works fine for now. I will continue to seek out parts, that's my hobby: seeking.

M & S had lots of picks and shovels, no Left Hand anything. McMaster Carr had the heavy duty nut, but I had to buy 6. So.. I am using a standard .625 nut, and I found a two collars from an angle grinder. The two sides have different weighted hardware, that was not my goal, but It will work fine, it might wobble a little goin' down the road though Thanks for all the input.

Mcmaster-Carr has no flanges, and I am not done searching the online catalogue for the nut, I got side tracked. I have not yet earned a hard copy catalogue of my own. I will search out a repair shop, good idea. Thank you for the help

Hello All, I found a free bench grinder...(yea right, free)..But the left side needs the flanged collars and spindle nut 0.625 LH, 11tpi. The spindle nut is a beefier unit than a standard nut. What is a good resource for parts, I have been unsuccessful at locating them? thanks for your help.

I recently moved to Cnt Pnt, there may be others.....

"....If you're interested in setting up a vintage/period shop then you probably don't want a kludge like the one above. Criminy! " KLUDGE improvised device, usually crudely constructed. Typically used to test the validity of a principle before doing a finished design; any construction or practice, typically inelegant, designed to solve a problem temporarily or expediently; an amalgamated mass of totally unrelated parts I like that word....... " kludge"....... exactly what we have here.

My intent was not to anger anyone, just being honest, My motive was to save it from being sent to china, and melted. when I see these old tools, I imagine it being used new, how happy the journeyman was to have this new tool, what the shop looked like, sort of a sentimental journey, etc... When it gets set up on the wall, I will still prefer to use my 60 year old Dayton. "You are depriving a working smith from having and using a vintage tool". If you would like to have it, to use in your shop, I spent 10 dollars for it, you may have it for 20, just don't get greedy an resell it, just pass it on. I don't want to be labeled a tool snob, depriving people of stuff. My Winchester model 1880 and model 1886 don't get fired much but they do get fired. The Game Getter (1903).22/.44 over and under is an awesome pistol, but the rounds have to be special made,or the chamber may expand. A little off topic but fun to boast. Thanks

Thank you for the schooling. Does this mean that some of the Portland would become airborne, and would the PPM be significant? I dabble in ceramics, take classes from community college. I will have to run this by the instructor see if he can help come up with a good castable refractory . Very informative thank you Kenny O

Got this for a steel, I don't know what brand it is, Maybe a GM ? I really wont use it but at least I have one.

I don't understand what this means? Thanks

Oh Yea, one more score. This thing is freekin' heavy! Around 200 lb. It was a humbling lesson in physics, getting it up into the back of my truck, gravity did most of the work gettin' it out. It has hammer marks all over it, so my guess is a very large power hammer was used to forge it, except for the giant rivet head,it has smaller strikes about it. I picked it up in Selligman, AZ, I believe it was from a mining operation, maybe copper, lots of copper around there, gold too though. It has WSC stamped on it, next to 3-1/2, it also has some other stamp, could be the blacksmith's initials. I forgot to shrink the JPEGs sorry