petersenj20

Location updated. I'm just west of Atlanta. I don't usually have much to contribute and don't update my profiles.

I downloaded and hope to watch over and over too.

You can do that with a roll of tape too.

I have a Milwaukee Portaband but haven't used it since buying a HF 4x6. I made a mount after gleaming info from others around some of these boards. I don't have much use for the portability since I do all my work in the garage. I still can't bring myself to get rid of it because it is so xxxx useful. Here are pictures of my concoction and one I took inspiration from. The first two are mine. The saw cost me $85 and came with a 10" miter saw and a table saw. Good deal in my book.

Besides the cool knives, This is an awesome video. Is this yours? I'm really missing out on a lot here.

Brazing is exactly what you need. Burn a couple of rods in the grooves. You can use a brazing rod with a tig. We used one once on a LARGE babbitt bearing that was cracked.

Here you go. http://www.sergisonmachine.net/images/tig.jpg Not mine. I got it here.

I went on a field trip in 5th grade when I lived in Cleveland. You're right. Modernization preservation is reserved for things that are less permanent. Around here most of the confederate battle sites have been or will be turned into subdivisions.

Bob- Is that shop built or commercial. It looks simple to make. Can you post some pics of the individual scroll pieces looking straight down on them. I would like to make a manual scroller for my bender and need the dimensions.

Good dig. Next time I'll be looking for a left handed Monkey wrench or a Cummins spark plug. This was actually supposed to be a manual of some sort. Like maybe one of the old books from Google.

A few days ago someone posted a tutorial that I thought I downloaded but was a bad file. I didn't get a chance to look at it at the time so I'm not even certain what it was about. It downloaded with the name 7-5.pdf but I can't find it with a search Anyone recognize the name or the post?

I live in an area that everyone seems to think used items need to bring new prices. But honestly I haven't really looked for any free or inexpensive leaf spring. The leaf wouldn't have done me any good for this project because I'm not forging, just grinding. I needed 4 inch wide and don't know if I could find any that big. And I have no illusions of being a knifemaker. Just trying to make a few neat things.

I have been working on a machete made of mild steel and plan on trying the Super Quench. I will report my results when done. I've seen the standard response to this, "why not use carbon steel?" 2 reasons. I haven't located a carbon steel supplier yet and since this is my first "knife" I don't want to ruin an expensive piece of steel.

Where were you 12 years ago?

Like I said not good enough to punch steel but here is my "Die" and the resulting punch. I used an inferior die material, and I don't actually have a forge. I was out of acetylene and used my Reil burner in open air. I didn't really get above a pale orange. I punched the design in the angle with a chisel and welded the tube around it to help keep the punch straight. The first one I tried had an upsetting effect and more or less folded over. I did whack the spit out of it though. IW is for Ironwood Workshop. I fancy myself a woodworker and metal fabricator. One day when I am better prepared I will attempt again. In the meantime a small chisel will make the mark. It is rather simple

Thats really the point though. Figuring it out yourself and knowing that there is nothing you need someone else to handle for you. I asked a few ? about this and tried to make one. I will get some pictures of my limited success using a "die plate". My die plate was a piece of angle iron. It didn't turn out well enough to stamp steel but will work for branding say wood accessories.

Time to break out the peyote and have a ceremony. Like the lilac one this is simply beautiful. My simple understanding of blacksmithing finds it hard wrap around such a project.

It can stick to the mold, but an easy solution is coat the mold with an acetylene flame leaving a black soot coating.

A totally different subject but I am thinking of making coil springs for a go-kart. It just occurred to me that leaf springs would be much easier to incorporate. I saw a show once that made a leaf spring for a motorcycle and at the time it shocked me that it was so simple. Of course they never mentioned what kind of steel it was. The MSC Big Blue Book has some simple info about their hardenable steels but very informative. Especially at good prices. I just have never seen metal advertised as spring steel. This is why old books are so wonderful to have. I have a backwoodsman magazine that shows how to make springs for a gun reproduction. Again it didn't mention the type of steel as I recall. To make a spring would you harden and then draw to a higher temp than for a knife, or just use a high temperature draw? And one more thing. What exactly is wrought iron? I read somewhere that it doesn't really exist any longer. From lots of time on this site this is obviously not true, but I have been reluctant to ask.

Is spring steel just high carbon steel? I have seen lots of places that sell all kinds of hardening steel but never spring steel. Also leaf springs seem to interchange with high carbon applications such as knives.

Dad always was a show-off!

I saw an old Solder pot this weekend. It was quite old. Maybe 60 years or more. It had 10 or so irons with it. I was just after a jigsaw and didn't have the money or an actual need at $40. I didn't even get the name. At first I thought it was a forge, but it was neat to see. I didn't want to dawdle too long as these guy can be pretty persistent, and in my neck of the woods the flea market prices are sometimes more than new.

I am not real confident in carving steel. What I can do, will be using a carbide burr that will be much bigger than the small detail I want. If I had a mill would be a little easier (Maybe)

Thanks. The original die being cast iron I know is not good quality. But if it will make the first punch in steel, I can then make a proper die out of tool steel and should last forever. I just hope I don't break the cast iron die in 2 pieces even with the punch heated to yellow. Never hurts to try.

I want to make a touchmark for my metalcasting endeavors. I have read several things including the blueprint here and at anvilfire. I have a few ideas of what I want for the design. I will be going to an iron pour where they let you make scratch blocks they will later pour into a 5x5 plate. I was wondering if this cast iron plate could be used as the die for a punch heated to orange or red heat and driven into it to form the design. Once it is formed and hardened I could make a proper die with a steel plate. I want a very small touchmark and I don't think I can get the detail I want trying to make a matrix punch.