Dogsoldat

Cabinet looks good. Nothing a quick coat of paint won't make look purty. Plug welds into the hinges from the back would sharpen it up even better. And I think I may just have to copy the stand.

Leevalley has many different water stones usually at a decent price

I might be wrong, but believe that in the Tom Brown survival books it is boiled up with ground charcoal to make glue for fastening stone arrowheads, but I can't remember his recipe for it. That and those books are someplace else right now.

My Traditional Bowyers Bible says to just boil it enough that when cooled it is firm but not brittle. Old hard rosin can be softened by melting and adding new rosin or beeswax. To increase strength up to 10% powdered charcoal can be added to melted rosin. Charcoal can be pressed into the surface to reduce stickiness. Plant fibres can be pressed in as well increasing strength and flexibility.

The strength scale puts
pitch 6lb
commercial casien 18lbs
5 min epoxy 28lb
yellow glue 38lb

for whatever it's worth...

whatever you did the wing is truly pleasing to the eye. all looks really cool

Thanks for that post, Stuff I kinda sorta knew, but presented that way makes for a few AH HA! moments...

Very nice job, can't wait for my broken pinky to heal so I can get back out doing things in the shop... Inspiring!

In June 1934, the Hahn family discovered a rock, sitting loose on a ledge beside a waterfall outside of London, Texas. The site primarily consists of 75-100 million years old cretaceous rock. Noticing this weathered rock had wood protruding from it, they cracked it open, exposing the hammer head. To verify that the hammer was made of metal, they cut into one of the beveled sides with a file. The bright metal in the nick is still there, with no detectable corrosion. The unusual metallurgy is 96% iron, 2.6% chlorine and 0.74% sulfur (no carbon). Density tests indicate exceptional casting quality.

The density of the iron in a central, cross-sectional plane shows the interior metal to be very pure, with no bubbles.

Modern industry cannot consistently produce iron castings with this quality, as evidenced by test results that show bubbles and density variations that have caused pump and valve bodies to break. The handle eye is partially coalifed with quartz and calcite crystalline inclusions, oval shaped, and roughly 1" x 1/2".


Didn't mean for this to get into any form of religious/pro/anti-science type debate. Linked to the page just for the info on where and how found, however valid. Along with the supposed alloy of the hammer head. Thought it was an interesting shape. It would be really nice to have some sort of scale next to it. Best guess so far seems to be a swage for drill ends... Personally I think there are many erroneous assumptions. Biggest being that the head was cast. From what I have read casting hammers is a more recent thing.

That it is but the hammer is interesting. The rest, well a good chuckle is always is needed here and there. It does resemble the end of a rock drill. Hadn't really thought of that.

I was looking around at a few random things and came across a page. While most of it is pretty far out the hammer does look interesting.



The face of that I can see looks like it has 4 points similar to a stone masons chisel or a heavy war hammer. Anyone seen anything like it in their travels?


Mod: Useless link removed

Thanks for clearing that up.

not sure that I have seen it mentioned anywhere yet, but what are the typical diameters of the holes thru a bolster plate. Are they 1/8" over the dia of hole being punched? I assume that you would want it fairly close to support the work best with minium deformation.

having issues in our small city, but it's the out of town bylaw @#$. Noneof the neighbours on my street care about my stuff out front. Sucks to be the only one with kids and not retired on my street. Plus most are japanese, so imaculate yards. grrr.... palisade and cannon ports are definately seconded.

found out there was a chinese laundry at one point in the house next to my lot. wonder maybe if it had something to do with that?

There has been a post vise mounted to a bench on the back of a shed in the alley behind work. Finally went and asked about it. I picked it up for $30. Screw is in good shape. Has had some welding done on it. Hard to tell whether the jaws had cracked or larger jaws welded on.



As well my first post vise is now mounted. Just need a whole lot of weight on the rear leg to hold the stand down. That or find the spot I want it to stay in and drill a few holes in my floor. Thinking that the one I just picked up is going on my stand I won't mind beating the snot out of it. My good vise still has the knurling on the jaws.

Just need less broken equipment at work and more time to play at home...

I might just have to steal your idea for myself. Love the simplicity and multifunctionality of it.

kudos on a beautiful tool, even nicer to to hear that it does a wonderful job

Bought a lot and during some landscaping found an odd shaped piece of cast iron. Any ideas what it may be from?


Poor pictures. Have a feeling I have seen something like it someplace on the net recently, just not sure.

mike

Max height signs don't always mean much either. Buddy had just put his nice stereo and complete cassette collection into the timberjack buncher he was running. Was to be bedded out past Castlegar someplace. They lost the top 4" of the cab going under the underpass at Castlegar. Think they measured 3-4 times to make sure they were not over max height. tuens out they were good but Highways had put a 5" lift on the road through there and used the old signage. think buddy found 2 out of a lot of tapes...everthing mounted and stored up top. Faller buncher was a rightoff. And from what I gather they were only doing 80km/h though that stretch of road.

Well, the new forge works great. Tried making a carving knife for the neighbours failed in heat treat. A few big cracks across the blade. Ah well, try that one again. made a few more arrow heads, they are getting faster. and the socket is getting more consistent big plus... Then I took the a piece of 3/8x1 1/2" mild. Ground off scale and folded and fluxed. Darned if I didn't get a decent weld. I then took the mudlflap hanger spring stock that I had straightened out and heated and beated that together. took it up to 20 layers or so. Didn't get a picture of the billet, but twisted and welded it back on itself. hammered out a small knife. It's now soaking in vinegar, just on the off chance that the pattern may show up. Not expecting much as its all the same material welded together.

Assuming that the mud flap spring is 5160 any hints or tricks to maybe get the pattern to show? Muriatic acid or ferric chloride would no doubt be the best bet. Will have to look into getting some. I have a 2 large seals from a buncher final drive, (double taper seal) looks to be the same material as a bearing race. Thoughts on contrast with the mudflap spring if I weld it all together.

start of a straightened out spring
new airtank forge
faggot weld in 3/8 mild
small blade out of mudflap spring

Just stoked thatI have finally got a setup where I can forge weld!

Looks handy. Any idea what the gear use to run. Don't know that I have seen anything quite that large.

Most excellent idea of using the holes around the cirumference to hang tools from. I like, better than having a heeap of stuff in the corner in a5 gal pail.

Think Dad wanted it for post and beam type stuff. Was thinking the the larger piece of the stub shaft could sit on a block with a few spikes throught the bolt holes to hold it down. then its portable. The shorter piece if used just take the chainsaw and plunge cut a square hole into the end of a block, of sized right should fit plenty snug, and if not a few wedges might just work to lock it in place. Though it could be welded to the crank pulley I haven't pulled out of the scrap bin yet. It's off a Cat engine from a logging truck that burnt up (lot's of excitement that day!)

Beat out a Slick for Dad today. makes a pretty good trade for a conveyor for moving dirt out of the basement to be. ***** of a lot of beating to get the socket spread enough to roll it up. Can't wait til the ceramic blanket comes in and I can get another forge set up and the old one relined. One for small stuff and another for larger bits.


And an interesting piece of scrap from the casualty at work. Stub shaft that holds the the track frame on the 527 Skid Cat broke. Was thinking maybe a base for my post vise, but not quite heavy enough. Might make a nice blade anvil if the face has two parrallel sides. Weighs 108lb when complete by the shipping slip for the new one.


Maybe back to arrow heads on sunday. all depends...

Surprising how dificult it is to get everything just right on a small arrow head. Have to try making a slick for dad as he requested one and have a feeling the socket for that will be real simple in comparison. What style of hammer/s were used classically to make them. I have watched Hector Coles video over and over. the button in the hardy or pritchel looks to be rather advantageous. Guess I have two more projects, a button for flattening the flare, and a smaller crosspeen, rest of my hammers are too big or too small.

Big ugly chisel for dad, promised to fix one of his long ago.


A bic, socket tongs, first attemp at rolling sockets for arrowheads. and a reshaped knife from a broken blade, just needs finishing. and what you don't see is the two failed attempts at sockets on the shop floor.



Going to take a whole lot of practice to get nice neat uniform arrow heads made up. At least the material is cheap, mudflap and bunk springs from our logging trucks. Hardest part is getting the socket wall thin and uniform enough.