Dogsoldat

stainless rod and build it up til you can get a hold of it. is it drilled on an angle? almost looks like ot would have to be to drilled and tapped in the first place. if so a long drill bit maybe? dunno maybe other better ideas from someone with better experience

I heat treat the pins same as 4340...seems like they're similar. Regarding the O1 for hammers, yes it is more difficult to work with and I've cracked a few pieces, but when careful it's a nice steel for a hard hammer.

Any idea what the alloy is used in a track pin. And what are you using for a heat treat on them? I can get a lot of them from work, big ones from our D-8K to fairly small ones on the Volvo processor, it goes thru links on the rails steady.

It was a thicker piece of spring. Maybe from a log truck to far back to remember now. pretty sure I torched it out roughly to shape and ground it all down to where I wanted it. It's wedged in the seat of the truck but pretty sure it's about 3/8" thick on the hammer end. The cutting edge is a fairly steep convex grind, does a passable job at splitting wood for a campfire. Just heavy enough you can beat on something fairly good with the hammer end.

Not pleased with the drifted eye in that it's not nice and even,nor a uniform taper to it. Not to concerned with size,just not a nice uniform oval from the top like I had wanted. Might take the die grinder at work and dress it up a little on the inside yet. Depends on just how far behind we end up with all the equipment...services due and whatever else the bush crew can thrash

I'd like to say it was all in one weekend. Been the last several since X-mas or so. As much time as can be pried away from other things... Lucky to get one good day in a weekend.

My first forged axe head. Not all that pleased with how the eye turned out. Will have to make a drift more suited to the job. Steel was a strip of 3/4" plate little over an 1" wide from the scrap bin at work. Seemed to harden up about right so that was a bonus. Slitting chisel worked good.


New axe posing next to 2 old ones from leaf spring and 1/2" galvanized pipe flattened and welded on. The polled one travels everywhere in my pickup. Has served well. The other has a really thin blade and get used for roughing out the odd bit of woodworking in my shop.

I'd have to dig, but there was a book of recipes at the school library years ago, it had a recipe for making a resin compound of some sort to build up the soft spots til the rest of the wheel wore down even. uhmmm...was something like 2000 recipes from the late 1800's early 1900's. I had photo copied sections, not really sure where it all got to. That recipe stuck out a little for Gr. Grandpas pedal powered wheel.
His blower was home made, a converted milk separator, with a tin cage and fins.

Old alphabets, symbols, etc from nearly every ancient language out there. Bound to be something for somebody.

http://www.ancientscripts.com/ws_types.html

Thread got me thinking about touchmarks...next project on the list....

Well the deal with the s-cams is the S portion that spreads the drums gets worn and the brakes don't actuate fully or the two spots where nylon bushings ride get badly worn from operator neglect (failure to grease). Neither pesent much in the way of cyclic fatigue. But yes, that is duly noted. And I see a lot less in the way of lawyers here in Canada than what people have down to the south of us...

thanks for the link and info

I'll have to keep the carrot in mind if I ever find another as roadkill. The s-cams are the shaft that goes between the brakes shoes and the air pots. Most are 24" in length and around 1 1/2" dia, and expect to be fairly good stuff for the amount of torsion on them.

Does anybody know what the s-cams out of a log truck might be for steel? Have a few we've swapped out at work, thinking hammers or drifts if I get ambitous. Have a broken axle and understand it's 4120 or 4320. Still collecting odds an ends getting things setup.

thanks for your time...