Jason @ MacTalis Ironworks

1095 is just a tad higher carbon than most would want for a hammer, but so long as it is properly heat treated, it will work just fine. The biggest pain in working it is going to be that it is harder at heat than 1045, but if you have a power hammer to work it, that is a minor problem. I'd suggest oil quenching it, to reduce initial hardness, and tempering it like you would 1045, and you should end up with roughly the same hardness as water quenched 1045. Might even be hard enough normalized, though I kinda doubt it, as you'd end up with more iron carbides than you would probably want.

I'd be all over it if I had the finances...

I'd be all over it if I had the finances...

For a team of accomplished smiths, sure, it isn't that huge of an undertaking, for the average guy, not really likely for sucess... I am assuming you are referring to building one "traditionally". Alot of guys make do with forklift forks or railroad rails... both work fairly well... heck a largish block of mild steel would probably be on par with most medieval anvils. I am actually planning on building a traditional style London pattern anvil some day.

Honestly since I first tried forge welding, it has come naturally... most of you who are having trouble I have noticed it is one of 4 reasons... Lack of confidence, you didn't get the work clean enough, you didn't get it hot enough, or you hit it way too hard... Those 4 factors are absolutely critical in welding. First, practice your movements... get them down so you don't waste time. Second, be sure to brush as much scale off as you can while the steel is hot just before you flux. Make sure you are getting to heat... either JUST throwing sparks in coal, or use the touch test in gas. And above all, a series of taps with the hammer will set the weld, if you beat the hell out of it, all you are doing is spraying the molten metal out of your weld. If you can keep these 4 things in mind, you will nail every weld, every time.

That was about what I was thinking, was just looking for a second opinion... Now if I can just find someone who carries the darn tapered tips around here in .035"... :angry:

First off, I am wondering what effect orifice size have on a burner? I have a 3/4" Sidearm and am currently using a .045 mig tip for an orifice, wondering if dropping it to a .035 would be beneficial... Second, I am having a little trouble with sputtering and huffing with the burner in the forge. It burns textbook perfect when out of the forge. What would be causing this and how would I rectify it. It seems to be worst when the forge is cold.

As was already said, those edges look just fine... sharp edges aren't really an asset for most work. Though I have ground into my anvil near the step a 2" long section where it is a nice sharp edge... mostly because I am too lazy to make a substantial table block for my hardy hole...

I am fairly certain Admiral Steel carries 1095 for a reasonable price... Unfortunately here in Cleveland, OH we don't have any steel suppliers that carry anything except the more exotic tool and alloy steels. Though I did find out that Uddenholm has a location here, so I have a great supplier of 15N20, and happily, a friend has about 3 tons of 1085 drops from the KaBar factory when he worked there years ago.

When in my forge: 1. Assume everything is hot - black iron is NOT cold iron. 2. Assume everything is heavy - don't try to catch ANYTHING falling, as most of my tools weigh more than you, and none of them cost more to replace than you do to repair. 3. Assume everything is a combination of the above, because there is a darn good chance it is.

I was just wondering if there a point of diminishing returns is all. I got it dealt with and she gets plenty hot. Thanks guys, always been a coal man... all my gas experiences were with others' forges.

I take 2 heats to do them, and I make a crapload of em... While I can make them in a single heat, I find it takes just as long to do them in a single heat and more work... If you run your taper in heat 1, then cut and head in heat 2, you get more accurate results, and don't have the frantic hammering to get the taper followed by beating your brains out to get the head.

Yeah, I had planned to do 2 layers Thomas if I went with 2"... I just wasn't sure if 2" was needed or if it was just a slight improvement.

I haven't been to the forums in awhile and it is awesome to see you guys take this thread and run with it. Recently my dad was working on his downriggers (mini-crane like devices that hold a heavy weight to troll fishing lines DEEP behind a boat) Anyway, the mounting bracket on one was all sorts of trashed, and he was about to shell out $200 for a new one when I looked at it, took a couple measurements then told him "follow me" After an hour or so in the shop, he had 2 new mounting brackets built even sturdier than the originals. I love being a blacksmith.

OK, poked around for an hour, and haven't found the info I am looking for. I am building a smallish gasser ustilizing 2 freon jugs and 2 burners. I am wondering however, just how much lining I am going to need, in terms of thickness. Is 1" wool likely to suffice or should I really go to 2"? I do plan on coating with ITC100 for reflection, and some variety of rigidizer like ITC 200 or the like. I know that thicker is better when it comes to insulation, but I would imagine there would be a point of diminishing returns. Anyone want to chime in? Pretty please? I am almost back up and running after being forced to switch to gas due to a shop move.

With the sidearm style naturally aspirated burners, does it make a significant difference where the orifice terminates in the tee? And, if so, where is "optimal"? Thanks.

I think it might have made the welds a little simpler for you. Though in WI, it would weld like a dream too. I actually really like the design, I think I am going to give a try at making one once I get my shop moved.

personally, I'd have welded the secondary hooks on as scabs then worked the hooks from them.

Comes November or so, I start religiously using Corn Huskers lotion. It works just fine for me. But in my case it is the non-existent humidity and high heat that get me to cracking.

I need to git off my butt and hijack a power hammer and churn out a few tongs mysself. I am severely lacking in a couple of the common sizes of steel I use and I am sick of "making do" with what I have.

There you go. Heck, if it really comes down to it, a reasonably flat hunk of granite or basalt will work. I know some guys who work some SERIOUSLY primitive stuff with rocks... LOL. Just gotta watch your swings as they sometimes chip if you swing too hard and/or miss.

Bah, you can never trust an apprentice's sense of taste Frosty, that is something that takes years of practice to hone... sheesh! And you ask me if I am new to this...

I don't know of anyone still producing it for bulk consumption, however, you can often find someone with a bit at the tailgating at conferences like SOFA. You might also try contacting one of the living history centers like Colonial Williamsburg. I understand that they occassionally buy entire bridges of wrought scrap. You MIGHT just be able to talk them into parting with a small piece. Just a thought. Failing that, if you give me a pile of money, I'll set up a smelter and make you some... LOL.

And, above all, and anvil need not look like a london pattern anvil. Alot of the REALLY early anvils were just a hunk of iron that was fairly flat on one side. And, as someone said, once you have an anvil, everyone and their uncle comes out of the woodwork looking to give you another one.

Dodge: I am definately no neophyte to pattern welding, I have easily a few hundred billets under my belt, but those were mostly all gas/powerhammer work done in a friend's shop when I was working for him forever ago. I used to run anywhere from 2-5 billets a day in those days. It was ultra rare for us to have delam issues, and any we did have, Gren usually fixed up. This is pretty definately an issue of a 25 layer billet being just too **** big to get to heat in my coal forge. As I said in my previous post, I am gonna just call it 2 billets and roll with that. Steve: I just run tacks up either side in the middle, near the end, and on the handle end of my stacks. Once I have initial weld, and I've cut and stacked, I weld fluxless from there. I seal up the seams between the bars with a TiG torch or whatever I can get my hands on. Heat and weld from there. Works great.