littlemilligan

Thanks Frosty, heres the wording ----BOORUN THE PELICAN CAME DOWN FROM THE NORTH WEST ALONG WIRNWIRNDOOK (THE MACALISTER RIVER). HE CROSSED DARTYOWAN (THE LATROBE RIVER) NEAR THIS SPOT AND MADE HIS CANOE, WHICH HE THEN CARRIED ON HIS HEAD AS HE WALKED TO YOWUNG (PORT ALBERT). AS HE WALKED HE HEARD A STRANGE TAPPING SOUND. WHEN HE GOT TO THE INLET BOORUN PUT DOWN HIS CANOE AND WAS SURPRISED TO FIND A WOMAN INSIDE IT. SHE WAS TUK THE MUSK DUCK. HE WAS VERY HAPPY TO SEE HER AND SHE BECAME HIS WIFE. BOORUN AND TUK ARE THE MOTHER AND FATHER TOTEM OF THE GUNAIKURNAI PEOPLE.

It's at the swing bridge in longford near Sale gippsland Vic on Gunaikurnai Land.

Just thought I'd put this up. I worked on this with my wife and a group of indigenous australians. It's corten steel on a 316 stainless steel dious which sits on a concrete moulding. The lettering spells out a dreamtime creation story of the local people of the area, in 430 stainless steel.

love to see some pics iron dwarf if you have any ?

These bowls are wonerful. I would assume the material was just 3mm mild steel ? and using the bottom of a gas bottle as the form, very insperational

buss bars=toxic, you learn something new every time you look at this site. on the same topic, don't burn the waste oil out of electrical transformer box's for the same reason. Awesome bracelet Nomadmad, now for the scaled down version for the finger ?

All I can say is after 30 odd years , working with hot metal, I can still do this to my self, WEAR GLOVES.

Cheers, catch up soon

Hope your lie down has you feeling better. I had posted a more jovial response but the powers that be decided it was inappropriate and took it down. Anyway the final thing is without cold lap or any other thing that would or could hurt you as you can see ya big palooka. :)

Thanks for the vote of confidence Phil, I hope I can repay the compliment at some point :P

By the time I've finished with them,( cleaning, grinding, buffing ect ) there is nothing rough about them Phil, you couldn't cut your self on these if you wanted too. The look is very deliberate, and nothing is accidental about it.

Thanks Frosty, so it looks like scale is what I've been thinking were "cracks" . I think I've had both, but the idea that not cleaning off before drawing out has caused what I thought were delamination ( and was in fact the opposite ). It's true that I was only banging the hot metal on the floor on my way to the hammer to let any loose scale drop off and not brushing it off. Thanks for the heads-up.

I'm leaving the marks on because the look I'm going for is polished but rough, I have thought about swages and a nice perfect finish but it would just look like someone turned it on a lathe, hand made/distressed look is better I reckon.

You would'nt believe it, when I polished them , just one out of four had the same hairline cracks/delaminations.

Okay, I'm into the next set of torches and not letting the metal get below orange (starting out yellow) and staying nice and square as I go down the taper forgemaster, and I've got it into the round, and NO CRACKS, woohoo. Thanks everyone. I think Frosty had it right about listening to the metal.

Thanks Rashelle, all advise from past hands on experience is good advise, and I'm realising that what I have chosen to work with here is tricky in anybodys book, which makes me feel better about my blind attempts so far. Woohoo, it seems I'm able to just post stuff straight out now, thanks folks, promise I won,t say bad words :rolleyes:

Thanks very much EricJergensen for your explanation, I was having trouble with the soaking thing. ThomasPowers, yes I can see now that working it till the colour is almost gone is to cold, I will not go below bright orange (very short working time, got it ).E.F. Thumann, yes you are right I did use the "s" word in my second post, but I was being moderated before that, and you can see the word was let through anyway, but yes I take the point that "g" rating is key.(still dont realy know why I'm on it though). And thanks heaps to you all for the feed back, it's very much appreciated and will post here after the next attempt.

Sorry folks, I could'nt find the post after I posted it ? I thought it was a non ferrous metal and so posted it there and then could'nt find it, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing in my case, therefore posted the question twice. Okay, now I have it, Phil, yes I'm drawing it down in the square then rounding it off, and as soon as the colour is gone out of it I'm back to the forge (oil forge) . It only breaks down as I reach the last third of the taper and even then I only notice it when I'm cleaning it up ( so then it's out with the welder/grinder ) I'm reading something MOONY sent me about working temps and "soaking" what ever that means, and so will try again when I've come up to speed a bit. P.S. I can't show the actual cracks as I've fixed them up, but the photos were to show what I've been trying to achieve. Can anyone tell me what this is about ? You have been placed on moderator queue. This means that all content you submit will need to be approved by a moderator before it will be shown

Just wondering if anyone can help. I am drawing down 2" 316 bar to a taper and every time it gets ratty. It gets cracks and delaminates and just feels like splinters.I am keeping the thing nice and hot but the more I work it the xxxxx it gets, HELP

I'm finding that the 2" round 316 bar always fracktures and splinters after drawing down under the hammer. I'm keeping it nice and hot but as I work it down into a point I can feel all the delaminations catching my hand as I feel along the taper. Any advice would be awesome, thanks Col.

It's all good

I'm totally rapt in this thread, the last two video's, wow

Hi Adair, I'm so glad that you have brought this up as I would like to know how to make dishes out of plate up to 5mm thick. I tried with apposing forms in a press without any luck. I have seen it done with a foot operated treadle hammer at MOONY'S place. It has opposing forms fitted to it.