macbruce

I spose there's a lesson to be learned here....I've got a perfectly good cordless grinder collecting dust in the shop and that puppy would have likely prevented this. Junkyard steel is allot cheaper, but I ASSumed it was the right stuff....... High Ho, back to school again.........mb

I've got anvil envy.......

Disaster.......the 7"x29"anvil was some kind of cast iron. 7018,308ss,thermanite,mig all failed to weld it.all welds broke away from the boss metal and took out big hunks, bah....took it back to the salvage yard with some other junk and never looked back........Ryerson don't look so bad now! euirgfeiyucvyu8d

75#unleaded

Ok,what I know may be of some use. I have a 25 ton w/ an 11 gpm vane pump @ 2500 psi, 5" cyl., 10hp single ph mtr and a prince flow regulator.The prince reg only restricts flo not psi. This setup allows fast or slow speed with no reduction in tonnage.The big 10hp mtr is needed to reach 2500 because of the large (11gpm)flo. If you already have the two stage pump then I recon you'll use that,but speed can be regulated other ways as well Unless you have 3ph, 10hp motors are a bit spendy, especially the starter. Anyhow there's more than one way to gut a dog.Don't know if this helps, just thought I'd pass it along .......mb........Also, this type of setup works best on smaller pumps/presses 10-50 ton+- cause much larger and you get into 15hp+ motors,$$$$

What sort of tonage are you looking to get out of your new machine? mb

Grief? The irs gives me grief.I think real value of this site is you can take what you need and leave the rest. It's all good...........I appreciate the input....mb

Nice work, Did you jump weld those ity bity thorns in the forge? If so, how?

It was piled into a heap and welded just solid enough to handle it, Scrooge kept it. But plenty of others were gifts..........mb

Leave these babies out for the in-laws!

You're right, But most of us have to do it "By hook or by crook", and that won't fly with this. At any rate the set screw would be a lotta work and I simply don't care to do it. as far as the overall function is concerned It matters little.......thanks mb

Well Grant,and the rest of the 10:1 crowd, Crow Isn't my favorite dish,but the impressive results re the IK 75 is a revelation to me.My 250 W/a 500lb ( didn't dare mention It was THAT small) anvil got .388 at 10 bl, and my 90 with a common bull wt anvil got .77 at 10 bl, choke. In my defense the 250 was built atop a 2 1/2 ton foundation 10" above grade,a space that it no longer occupies ( It's on timbers now). I think perhaps improved controls played a part in the impressive results re the ik. Forging 3" easily with the ik 150 does indeed seem like a valid claim. My 250 does 3" efficiently though, I think some massive plate under the rig is in It's future. Still, I love my hammers such as they are...................mb

Anything is possible, but drilling that hole will be anything but easy. It's 2 1/2" thick and would need taping as well........Not my idea of fun. I recon the hole can be utilized without the set screw. Bolting a bolster to the "outrigger" nuts should work. Also the hole is not true. The trunions were machined into each end 10" or so and the middle is rough. Boring that is over the top......It's all good.mb

Thanks for the input but drilling holes in that bad boy is out, the outside of the cylinder has been induction hardened 1/2" deep.....mb

I can't see me ever hucking bars down the hole to upset, spose it's possible........And ah, the reason for it's existence? For me no, commission no......Too much time on my hands maybe....It's negotiable

Hmmm, that could indeed be handy. I sure can't utilize the hole if it's on the bottom....The thing I'd need to be careful of is not to crash the piston into the cylinder...

I's not welded yet. Not sure I follow you re hardy hole for upsetting, can't that be done with flat dies?

Well I'm full of coffee and am letting the shop warm up so I guess I could elaborate on this a tad more. As shown the end you see has had the trunion cut off at the top (no hole)so the hole is at the bottom. This way I didn't have to make two cuts through the hardened surface (hole problem solved). The other pic shows what I call a sow plate, it's kinda ugly but It allows perfect alignment with the static upper die as well as the capability to do an underbite or overbite with the dies, I find it useful. The bolt on dies I make nix the need for a hardy hole. also the out rigger nuts that hold the plate nix the need to drill and tap the anvil, a real plus on this piece of steel.....anyway that's how I like to do it..........mb

Thanks for the re post Frank, being a new member I didn't catch that one. I can hardly fathom some of the some of mastery that sweet o'l boy can conjure. I remember meeting you at a demonstration circa 1976 at Skunk Hollow Forge, and what weekend that was....Time passes fast....mb

Some of us fossils probably the stuff in a can at the auto parts store that would re seal piston rings,I never bought any........As a stop gap the grease could work ok......mb

The fluted matierial actually turned out to be tube, after getting It cut I couldn't help but notice a 2.5" hole! The stuff began It's life as a feed roller and the "flutes" were cut (at a slight spiral) to grip the matieral. With trunions on each end it looked lie a giant rolling pin....It's quite hard and needed a carbide blade to cut it,and the cut was true. I was really trying to avoid getting it faced off (bust the budget big time). I'm just gonna have to live with the 2.5 hole, or maybe I could could fill it...Hmmm...nah.......mb

Oops, I meant to say 7'' dia x 36'' long...mb

Looks like another case of Hammeritis,poor guy...Beware my friends!