knots

First of all I would want to figure out what the quality of the anvil really is, and therefore if would it be worth the effort or even possible to repair it.  Are there any identifying marks ?

Just looking at the anvil I see a couple of unexpected conditions.  The chipped edges show no evidence of a plate ( that I can see) so I assume that the anvil is cast.   The step between the anvil work face and the cuting table is unusually small.   Given the nature of the edge damage, these are features that I might expect to find on an unplated cast iron anvil.  If it is an unplated cast iron anvil I would not waste the effort of an attempted repair.  

This is all based on what I see in one picture.   If there are markings on the anvil and you could provide additional information maybe we could be more helpful .

Or as VaughnT suggests radius the corners and use it .

Looks like a casting of a real anvil......If there's a parting line down the center of the face and horn, walk away....................................

Personally I prefer your foam anvils.

Have you tried Kerosene in your TIKI Lamp ?    If that doesn't work try adding a touch of oil or alternatively try diesel fuel.  Come to think of it you could try adding a bit of oil to the TIKI oil you already have.

If you are considering the purchase of this anvil you should factor in the fact that part of the face plate is missing.  

Is there a manufacturer name and model number.  Can't tell much from looking at a picture.  

Can you tell if the hydraulic pump is a gear pump or a piston pump.   Pump type makes a big difference.  If not a gear pump it may not be intended to run above a 1000 PSI.  Also if  the phase converter is a static type converter you may not be getting full power.   Read the phase converter literature.

I like Jim's idea of the Z clipping the anvil to your 1/2" plate .  This will in effect add mass to your anvil as well as stabilizing it .  The anvil should act as a somewhat larger anvil  resulting form both the stabilizing effect of the larger base and the additional weight.  

I changed from sand to a log base primarily for the convenience of being able to use my overhead track system to lift and move the anvil as a unit other wise my PW would likely still be on sand.  Both systems work and we each choose the way that works for us or as preferences may dictate.  

Have a look.  I think I need one of these.

The last new Wilton vice that I bought was in 1990 and it cost $275 back then.  I would consider a $50, good condition, high quality american made vice a bargain.   It is easy to spend more than that driving around looking for one, not to mention the time.

Out of curiosity why not look up Wilton vices and find their current cost.   Of course the German vices are really nice but that is another story.

I just noticed what may be a pinned connection in the side of the upper part of the jaw.  Could be how the jaw plates are held into the body of the jaw.  Pinned in from the side.  If so I have never seen this before, and would be the kind of fussy detail that would indicate high quality.  Have a look and tell us what these features really are.

There are a few types of drill bits: the lift and drop bits are commonly called "Churn bits" and can vary wildly depending on formations and conditions. then there are rotary bits they too can vary wildly from tricone bits, button bits,, finger bits, tooth bits and combo bits, tec. then there are impact bits like you see drilling holes for setting explosives we called them air tracks because everything about them was run with compressed air. Those bits are designed to be hammered into whatever they encounter with a little rotary action to keep the bore holes round and keep them from jamming, cuttings are blown up and out with air. These are seldom expected to drill more than a hundred feet or so. combo drills are usually rotary rigs with a hammer to advance the bit and casing by beating it through obstacles. A basic principle of drilling is we can put a hole in ANYTHING or break it and push it out of our way.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

OK , but I thought that we were discussing well drilling tooling.  Most of the hollow bodied compressed air tools were used for blasting.  Some of the quarry drill rigs were fairly substantial machines but were still in a different class from the oil field rigs.  

The question remains what kind of drill bit could have been forged sharpened on the featured tool ?  

I used to have an old rock drilling bit that looked like a tuning fork . My understanding of how it was used was that  it was lifted and dropped repeatedly into the well bore while water was being pumped down the hole to remove the tailings.  I fail to see how one of these old style bits could have been forged on anything other than a bridge style anvil.  This old style drilling proceedure has long since been abandoned having been surplanted by rotary drilling.   

My father in law was a driller and later a tool pusher for the old Humble oil company. He worked the oil fields from the 1930's to the 1960's. My conversations with him indicated that, at least in the part of the country that I come from, the wells were far to deep to use anything other than rotary drilling .  The exception to that may have been the east Texas fields which were being drilled in the 30's.  My understanding was that the rotary drills were routinely sent back to special shops for reconditioning, not reconditioned in the field .

 I guess the question is: Is there another style of well drilling bit that I am not familiar with that could be forged to recondition using the tooling shown.  If I have missed something I would love to be re-educated .  

However given the existence of the T slots and provision for the dogging in place on the featured tool, this sure looks to me to be a really big die for a really big machine.  Yet, it sure would make a nice striking anvil .   

I had a picture of that fork shapped bit that I though I had posted here on IFI but cannot find it.  The file for that picture was lost when my last computer crashed.

Here is an alcohol lamp used to afix stone cabochon blanks to dowels for grinding and polishing.  I bet if patio lamp oil were used instead of alcohol soot would result  .  

I had my 300 pound PW on sand for at least 15 years.  I used 2 layers of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed together as the setting surface over the sand .    By all means Z clip the anvil down to whatever you  use as a base.   

The problem that I had was that the anvil would tip away from my work side  of the anvil under use.   The clips should cure this problem.  Use a shop vac ocassionally to remove the scale and other debris.

I just don't see this object as being an oil field tool sharpening anvil ( no bridge), nor do I see it as being an insert for a large power hammer (to long).   However I have seen hydraulic presses with a footprint the size of a 2 car garage, but not in NM.  But then who knows what the government has out there.

The T shaped slots on the one side look like - well T-Slots.  The rectangular holes on the other side look like seats for hold down dogs/clips.

Have a look at this forum.   You should join and lurk - there is a wealth of information available.

Making a 3 Phase motor start on single phase power is not as straight forward as adding a couple of start capacitors, at least if done properly.   Have a look see and see what you think. 

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/transformers-phase-converters-vfd/

I know nothing about the manufacturer however, depending on the condition of the screw and nut, I would pay $50 for that one over a new import.  It is hard to beat good American Iron.

It is interesting that the removeable working face of the jaw is the full depth.

I don't know what it's originally intended purpose was but it would make fine striking anvil.  From the looks of the edges it is hardened and heat treated.

Rebound ????

What you want to build is a "Rotary Phase Converter" .   I built one for my Gorton Vertical Mill.   Start off by Googeling " rotary phase converter circuit diagrams.

There are basically two types with varing  degrees of sofistication.  !.  RPC with self starting circuitry.   2.  RPC with manual start.  The second choice is the simpleist to build because rather than including a complicated electronic starting circuit this type uses a pony motor or maybe even a pull start rope like an old outboard / lawn mower .   The Rotary phase converter (3 phase generator motor) is started by either mechanical means or electronic starter circuits.   It is run using single phase 240v power .  After it is running the third phase is tapped of of the windings and  can be used to power another machine.

I think that the " Practical Machinist" site has a lot of information  on various RPC  builds.   One thing -  The RPC generator motor needs to be over sized or bigger than the rating of the driven motor. 

The good news is that it really works.  I will post a picture of mine tomorrow.  Maybe I still have some references around although they were on my old computer that crashed and burned.

I now see where you said that you use bricks to "close the opening a bit"   How about showing us the brick closure as you use it.   Gettting it closed as tightly as possible at the top of the opening is important.  How about  a picture after dark so we can see how the forge exhausts ?  

The mass of the forge floor liner is importanat because it acts as a heat sink.  Having a floor that stores heat will take longer to bring the forge up to forging temperature but once hot will transfer heat to the work piece efficiently .   

Lots of heat being lost out of the open front of your forge.   My appologies if I missed something but some sort of closure of the end of the forge is needed to achieve the full heat potential of your forge.  Insulating fire brick stacked to limit the opening size would help.  Alternatively build a door.  Enclosed are a couple of examples of door types.

Some of the cast anvils have sides that are cast pretty flat ( if not horizontal) .   Any suitable surface of an anvil is fair game for use.

Test the rebound.  Listen fo the ring .   Good rebound and ring reel it in.

I made a recent search of the guranted hardness of several manufacturers anvils .  The following is what I found for Peddinghaus.

Depending on the size of your hardy hole -  Jack Hammer / paver breaker bits make excellent hardy tools.   These point tools come in a couple of sizes.  The smaller size, if you can find them will forge to fit  smaller hardy holes while the larger size works well for  hardy holes in larger anvils.  

Go to tool rental stores and ask for dull and broken tool bits.   Tool bits for the smaller demolition hammers are a good choice for hand held chisels and punches, 

Sounds like you have found a digger bar.   The steel in that bar is likely to make some decent tools but you won't know for sure until you try.

That says it all.  It's gotta be good.