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I Forge Iron

Randy

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Everything posted by Randy

  1. Just in the last two weeks Online Metals started carrying 385 architectural brass. You can even buy a piece 1" long if need be.
  2. Great job, Beth! In design and execution. Since it has to be painted why not colors instead of black? Or paint it green and what ever colors you choose, then paint over it in black or dark brown and wipe off immediately so the highlights show and the colors just come through.
  3. Thanks, all. I've done a few skulls as it seems to be a popular theme right now. I made several skulls and used them to make dies for my press. In this case I used a top and bottom die and squashed the hot bronze inbetween them, turned and did it again. As there is not enough resistance in the material the detail of the noses and teeth didn't show up and I got more of a spirit look instead of the skull look. Some times "mistakes" turn out better than we originally planned.
  4. Here's one of my latest pieces. Forged from architectural bronze, it is 3-3/8" high and about 1-3/8" round. This was made for a handle for a cane or walking stick.
  5. I'm almost out of my forgable bronze and many of the suppliers have minimum orders. Any ideas where I can buy 385 architectural bronze or 655 silicon bronze as either drops or say 4 foot lengths? Any leads would be very helpful. Thanks!
  6. I just figure the length, scarf the ends, bend around using the horn and weld, then true up on the cone. 'bout the only faster method is to get the rings laser cut out of plate.
  7. Yea, it's not old enough for tall ship battles. I've attached the other side signature. You can see it's not in the exact same location, but no more clues as far as the manufacturer. Thanks for any ideas as to its' use.
  8. I've had this for many years and wondered what it was used for? It looks factory made, by drop hammers? It's signed on both sides, but not if enough info for me to identify. Both signatures are off center differently and at slightly diferent location. It reminds me of a fireman's pickaxe, but it's only 8" long. Any info would be appreciated.
  9. Randy

    A.D.

    I know many of you on the east coast know A.D and Mary. You see them at many of our hammer-ins. A.D. is curious and attentive learner of our forging skills and it shows in his work. He has a great sense of humor. Mary hammers too and I've even seen the two of them hammering together. Mary goes around handing out nice little copper pieces she's made and wants to share her joy of what she has accomplished. I just heard that A.D. was just diagnosed with inoperable pancreatic cancer. They are contacting hospice care so it doesn't look good. You won't meet two nicer people. Please keep them in your thoughts and prayers.
  10. It's probably the way you hold your hammer and how you swing it. Don't put your thumb on top. It's harder to keep control, especially in the beginning with your thumb on top. Grasp it as if someone just handed it to you. Thumb all the way around the handle. When you hammer you use your lower arm more and have a firm wrist. You don't hammer with a wrist motion. That works fine for jewelers and light work, but for hot hammering keep it stiff. Smiths develope Popeye arms. The lower arm gets big. I had one guy show how to hammer by putting the thumb on top and using wrist action and then complained about carpel tunnel.
  11. Yea, Ted doesn't respond to emails very well. You are better off calling him.
  12. Look up the Chesapeake Knife Show. Contact info Ted Merchant or Marty Merchant Chesapeake Knife Show P.O. Box 126 White Hall, MD 21161 (410)343-0380 It's best to call them if you want a table. The show itself is at the Crowne Plaza in Timonium, MD. The hours are 9am - 5pm, Dec. 9th. Admission $10.00 I hope to see you there!
  13. Ciladog, Now it all makes sense. The hydraulic directional solenoid control valve is what I've been missing in any discussions about limit switches. Thanks so much and have a great Thanksgiving! Randy
  14. Ciladog, that looks clean and simple, just the way I like things. But when you talk of solenoid valves you threw me. How do they tie into the operating valve? Or are they electric and they turn off the motor? I'm lost. Thanks for your help! -Randy
  15. Anyone know any good references for limit switches being added to a hydraulic press? A how-to?
  16. Rex, looks good. Calm down and read the book before you plan or buy anything. Also giving info as to what pumps and motors, etc., is a risky way to go. They can get the book and see what works for thier situation, meaning what tonnage they require and what cylinder they end up with. It all needs to match correctly or something dangerous can happen. It would be neat to see the progress that you go through. Good luck and keep safe.
  17. Whoa! I think you need to put your brakes on. You're jumping too far ahead. First, get the book. Second, figure out what you're going to use the press for. Third, then figure what tonnage and then what frame will work best for what you want to make or do with the press. If it's just damascus billets then a 24 ton C-frame, like your photo will be fine. If you want to do more with it and bigger material you may need a bigger press. Remember that tonnage is per square inch so if you're working a 3" square under the press then you only have a third of the force, or something like that. I've got a 60 ton press H-frame press and there are times I'm only doing 3/16" plate, but it's a 4" square and the press is straining to get the job done. With this information now you can start buying a cylinder and designing the frame. But not before. Then you need to figure where your motor, pump and tank are going to go. Attached to the press? Under it? On a separate cart? Don't forget to plan on safety and only get parts that are correct for a press of your tonnage. Piping, hoses, etc. Also don't forget to get protective sleeves for all of your high pressure hoses. They are cheap and a must! Don't go cheap. Buy what's required or better. Most of my parts came from Northern Tool. A good source for hydraulic supplies and motors. Hand operation of presses means you only have one hand to hold the hot metal. Come up with some type of foot control. I hope this helps.
  18. Way to go. Good process. It may be easier for you to straighten the spring by putting a strong piece of round stock in the vise horizontally, slide the hot spring over it and pull the hot end. The reverse of making a spring. Of course if the spring is too big you won't have the strength to pull is open and you'll have to cut sections to straighten. Also titanium is a good material for strikers.
  19. Yea, not the thing to guess about. Usually the cylinders are the first thing to purchase as they determine the size pump that you need and then that determines the size motor that you need. Also the I-beam frame will have to be built to safely support what ever tonnage you come up with. Best deal out there is a great book on the subject. The bible for building a press: "Build Your Own Hydraulic Forging Press" by Jim Batson. It can be purchased at the American Bladesmith website: http://www.americanbladesmith.com/index.php?section=product&subsection=product_details&product_id=30 This will answer all of your questions .
  20. Some say they keep the rythmn up that way. Most think it's a waste of energy. When the old timers were asked why they did it they said that in coming to this country it was the only thing that they could bring over from the old country that was duty free.
  21. They use hard coal at the Green Family Forge in Trinity, Newfoundland, using a bellows and a side blast forge. In teaching a week long class in that shop the biggest problem that we had is that if you leave it for 15 minutes it wants to go out. So when leaving for lunch we would put a piece of firewood in the center and blow some air on it to get it burning. Then when we got back we'd add some more air to make sure the coal was burning and go on from there. This was a tool making class and we did everything I usually do with soft coal including forge welding.
  22. There sure are a lot of knife and /or gun shows around. Plus their rates are better than the craft fairs. They run from $50 to $200 for a 6 - 8 foot table. So no booth to set up and it gets to the people you're looking for.
  23. This is architectural bronze, alloy 385. I have to hand hammer it first to get it closer to shape as what I have isn't close to the size I need and then I heat it again for the press. It works real well in both situations.
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