Fosterob
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Posts posted by Fosterob
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Are those pics of two different machines or parts of the same?
Rob -
I dont remember anything else on that line being used during the last conference. Maybe remove the twist for the conf until a more permanent answer is found. That way at least it works to its best with everyone there. I will still try to go and will be sad if I miss it. Would it not hit harder if the belt drove it the proper rotation, instead of trying to push away the clutch wheel it would just hit.
Rob -
spring washer, wave washer or belleville washer?
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I was wondering about the reverse direction of that hammer. It looks like if the twist is removed from the belt off the engine the direction would reverse. Will the engine run either direction? I know nothing about them. I may not be able to make it down to the conference this year .
Rob -
:lol: :lol: Thats a good one, especially #5
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What size is it? Looks to be about 3/4 to 1" wide and 6-8" long in the pics but there is nothing to reference off of. Looks nice though, too bad about the cracks.
Rob -
Another thought is if they only have part time on these in the winter so will you. Your son will need something to fill in that time and that part of the shop will not be useable for anything else.
Rob -
It sounds like they did not make enough money on these to even maintain their equipment? Be sure you do not end up in a similar situation. I hope that your 4b runs good.
Rob -
I spoke to a retired gentleman once that used to re-point gats and he said it was hard work, as stated earlier. He also made sure all the tips were of proper hardness before returning to the customer, take that into account.
Can you unload the truck, shake out the pallet, forge gat tips, re harden them, have it packaged up to ship, and load on the truck all for $1.50 each? Does not seem like it is a money maker with equipment wear and tear taken into account.
Rob -
Impressive is right. Even if it is wood
Rob -
If you made a frame out of something more substantial than 1/8 angle you should be fine. Angle is no good in any size to resist twisting and 1/8 might be strong enough to keep wet cardboard from sagging. I would use 2x2x1/4 wall tube to frame your opening. Tube is great for this kind of thing. Anything you put will probably warp due to more heat on one side though. Firebricks on the inside of the top to protect the plate?
Rob -
If you dont know what you want then they do not want to waste time. You should know what sizes of bars you want and how many of each. When they ask what kind of steel tell them "hot rolled , mild steel" which is A36.
If you sound like you know what you want then you are more likely to get service. Also find out the name of the salesman and always ask for the same person. They like to get things made from their steel, bottle opener, BBQ fork, keychain, etc.... Dont ask them to cut it and try to save up fo a bigger order, you will always use it.
Call to the supplier should go something like this: Hello steel house, can I help you-Hi my name is Drewed, I would like to buy some steel.- What can I get you- 2 pcs of 3/8 sq, 2 pcs of 1/2 sq and 1 pcs of 1/2 x 1 1/2 solid, all hot rolled.- You mean A36?- Yes"
Pay w/credit card and be there for delivery. About 75 cents a pound average currently in Ca.
Hope this is helpful
Rob -
OOOPPS :o :o
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http://www.scribd.com/doc/10097282/Uri-Hofi-Interview
It seems Hofi states the answer in this interview. -
Bob, Thank you
Rob -
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Generator is fine for welding machines. Or make a 220v extension cord for your welding machine that you plug into the house dryer outlet etc. You will always be able to use that cord down the road.
Rob -
Almost every blacksmith will have at least one and likely more of these. New ones are about $700 last I saw advertised. Do you want to use it or sell it? E-bay will get the most money for it. It looks to be in good shape but as stated above the screw threads are very important to value. Could be worth as much as $200 to the right person. Most I have seen are not as nice looking as that one.
Rob -
That looks nice and professional. How hot will it get? What is the power requirement? 110 or 220? Details of construction? I am collecting parts to build something like that is why I am asking.
Rob -
Rob thanks for taking the time to measure your dies and post the pictures. That is how I am going to mount it when I pull the hammer to raise it. I see the 3" baseplate. Are the other plates under the hammer and anvil steel as well? Or are they a composite or timbers, hard to tell from the picture.
Cool thing happened today. I got a call from my old boss who sold me my hammer. He has some old die material to get rid of.
I can post more pics of the rest of the mounting if you need it. It machine is on what seems to be solid steel plates (2 @ 3 1/2" if I remember right) from the weight of it. They are the size of the footprint and the anvil is on some kind of VERY dense plastic, 1 5/8". I thought it was steel until a red hot metal started to burn it.
Glad to help
Rob -
Harris,
Mine on the 2B were made by Bob Bergman when he had this machine. I dont know why he would make them different than factory height but I can not say for sure. They are 5" tall and the distance from the top of the bolster block to the bottom of the ram guide is 14" I can show pics if you like weather is bad now though.
This machine is mounted on 3" plate like Ric had mentioned and I highly recommend this way of mounting, the pics are of how easy it was to unload the 15,500 lb machine with base and a closeup of the base. Bottom die height is a bit shy of 42" off the ground.
Rob -
I think he means Australia.
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Where I live all the steel that sits outside is heat treated in the summertime, even some tools get the heat treat and it is not a treat to pick it up. Makes you want to grab one of the cryogenically heat treated aluminum cans in the coldbox. :D
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It seems for shorter nails the Tom Clark way is best and for longer nails with straight sides the Peter Ross way would work great. I have not tried the Peter Ross method but will next time I need nails.
Fabricated foundation for Nazel 4B
in Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
Posted
Even if you make a 3" steel plate base it would be a good idea to have a substantial amount of concrete under it. Ii is really easy to form up a hole in the ground to have a slight draft (as in a casting) and pour your foundation with a lifting eye or two recessed in it. Pull it out of the ground when you leave. But if you do that the need for a steel plate base is gone.
Rob