Fosterob

I have looked at what is on ebay, it looks like I can get a Siemens starter for $93.00 and the start stop button for $36.00 plus shipping = $153.00 seems reasonable I just want to be sure and look at other options before I click "buy it now"
I am no expert when it comes to machines, but I do not like the sound this thing makes at start up and shut down, and sparky says that this set up is hard on the motor so I would like to change it out. Oh and my buddy the electrician owes me some work, I fixed the pipe on his Harley that was broke in two pieces.

It sounds like you will not be happy to spend $153 and have the motor make the same noises. Mag starters are just a fancy switch that does the same thing as a manual switch. Leave your manual switch and put a soft start in line with it. Or get an inverter which will give soft start and speed control and ramp down when you shut it off. Not sure if the soft start unit will slow it down on shut down or not, I do not remember.
Rob

No info on soft starters, I have not used them for about 12 yrs but the ones we used to use were baldor and worked very well. Do you not have a fused disconnect switch?
Rob

I dont think there will be any difference in the life of the motor weather you use a fused disconnect or a mag starter. Steve?? The mag starter would be my choice if I had to buy on or the other because it allows you to put the pushbutton on off switch wherever you want to, that is the benefit I see. A soft start unit will extend the life of the motor as will an inverter with a soft start.
Rob

Concrete has a 28 day cure, With all the anchors in this it would be foolish to torque them and run the hammer and risk breaking them loose from the 'crete while it is still green. There is a lot to do to yet setting and wiring the machine, about a week is how long I would wait to set the weight of the machine on the footing (but not hammer with it).
Rob

I guess I should have said usually concrete has a 28 day cure. With special addmixtures , hardeners, water reducers etc you can just about make it do whatever you want, but it will do it by itself anyway without all that stuff, $$$.
Rob

I must agree the screw looks to be to slow, I don't think it is a fly press if that is what you are looking for. Seems a lot of money for what it is. I hope it is not a long drive .
Rob

A month! Waiting a week for the pad for may lathe nearly killed me.

Concrete has a 28 day cure, With all the anchors in this it would be foolish to torque them and run the hammer and risk breaking them loose from the 'crete while it is still green. There is a lot to do to yet setting and wiring the machine, about a week is how long I would wait to set the weight of the machine on the footing (but not hammer with it).
Rob

That sound like it went pretty smooth. Good call on the holes in the pan. Now you just have to wait a month til you can use it, kind of like watching grass grow.
Rob

That looks good. Are the allthreads removeable? Make sure to vibrate it especially under the steel pan, I guess that is for the anvil?
Rob

Seems you should plan on 10" of wood. If you are able to source something else it is easy to fill the hole with something (pourstone) later to the new level. The oak seems a proven way. I would look at pallets, some bigger ones are made of oak 4x4s and 1" planks on top. Free. Is it to wet for oak trees up there? Here we just go to one of the guys with a sawmill and give him some dry logs and instant custom beams....
Rob

Are you trying to make a grate similar to a stormdrain street grate that would keep debris from clogging the pipe? The ones I have seen are sloped so debris can float up at an angle to let water pass below it, that would make it easier to clean as well. Imagine a street grate with less bars at a 45 degree angle layed in front of the pipe. Hope to be helpful.
Rob

The conference is more about the learning and demonstrations than about running the Bradley. We do that mostly during the Semi-Annual Tractor Shows. There's at least on LG on the line currently that will probably be used, but I think most of the focus will be on hand forging. My personal goal (and I'm not in charge!) is to get the belt direction reversed for the Spring Tractor Show, which is the last two weekends in June.

You're right in commenting about hitting harder: we're expecting the belt switch to make the treadle operate easier. We're looking to other adjustments to make it hit harder.

I used that hammer at the last conference there and was annoyed it was so hard to use. I guess you guys that live close to there are used to its mannerisms I find it hard to either teach or learn on equipment that is not properly working.
Rob

Keep all the dies and if you must buy new ones, get the new ones to make a matched pair of drawing dies for what you already have. Even if you do not use the extras for their intended purpose they are easily modified for something else later.
Rob

Could get confusing when you need something 113" long
Rob

I know a fair amount about concrete. Make sure that your concrete guy has a vibrator large enough to do the job, it is very important to have a dense pour for this application and vibrating removes the air pockets. You may consider something like a 7 sack mix for more strength as well.
Rob

The good thing about your "swimming pool" setup is that you could adjust the floor level around the hammer to get the height to where it works best for you. Just don't make the top part of the concrete base much larger than the machine footprint. I would do like Harrismetalsmith and put pavers or something to stand on. I had roadbase around mine and wore some deep holes where I was standing and ended up putting some cast iron grates in that area.
Rob

Im 5 11

I think the thing you fail to take into consideration is the bigger the hammer the farther you have to lean in to the die... You cant stand upright in front of a 4B, if you did you would be close to 3 feet from the center of the die, so it needs to be lower because as you lean in thats what is the most comfy... I think my 3B could stand to be a couple inches taller but my 135lb hammer I really like where it is at 38.5".. Maybe I got longer arms that you??

I did not think of the lean in factor but I am not sure about it. If you are doing stock the machine is rated for you would not want to be that close to it. I know everyone has their own comfort level and I just try to share the reasoning why I like my comfort level so others may apply as they choose. Now that I think about it the 3" plate on my 2B forces me back from the center of the dies, maybe 8-12" beyond where you would be without it so I am used to working farther away. Something to consider for those who want to mount on plate.
Rob
I wont talk about knuckledraggers :D

Are you short? If I stand in front of it for 5-6 hours the little bit of hunch is felt at the end of the day, there is no reason to not be standing straight up. I never understood the mentality of the bigger the hammer the lower the anvil needs to be? Large pieces will be lifted and supported by some kind of hoist so there is no reason that I can see to give yourself a bad back so you can look like someone in an old photo working at the hammer. Maybe I am missing something? 45" may be high for me but not by more than an inch or two. Centerline of work piece at a comfortable non hunching height minus 1/2 the size of the work piece most commonly used with tongs should set the lower die height. Large work isn't held with tongs so is a little more forgiving on posture.
Remember -haste makes waste-
Rob

Well I am only doing this once, my 3B is not even bolted down let alone on a foundation. So that's for a 10'. X 12' hole 4 feet deep half will be poured flush with the floor for the 3 the other half the 4b foundation. 12 yards of mud and 12 yards of dirt to go away. So I guess if you look at it as $2000 per hammer it's not as bad

Make sure you like the height of your bottom dies. My 2b on its plate is about 41 1/2" above the floor and I think it a bit low sometimes. I'm 6' tall. We are just finishing a remodel of the house and one of the things I did was to put taller new cabinets so the kitchen counter is 39" instead of the standard 36". It makes a big difference not hunching over all the time.
Rob

For all the effort you have put and are continuing to put into researching, making, scrounging and talking about this you could have all seven of those bent in a few hours by filling with sand. The bends should look like they were done on a mandrel bender and it takes very little equipment to do.
Rob

I have done a lot of structural work in the past and use ESAB 7018 for the odd time when core8 or 7100 ultra won't work. This talk of rod ovens reminds me that if you buy 7018 or any other lo-hy rod make SURE it is in a hermetically sealed can. NOT the cardboard box on the shelf wrapped in plastic. Those rods have absorbed moisture and are garbage. I buy the ESAB in 10 lb HSC cans and on an inspected job the best thing you can do is open a new can for the inspector. I think you have something like 9 hours to use it before it needs to go in an oven. I do not need to own a rod oven by doing inspected work this way. As long as the insulated box (old fridge) is above the boiling point of water there is no problem for the lo-hy rods.
Rob

From the bottom of the anvil to the bottom of the dovetail in the sow block is 34"

Is 34" going to give you a bottom die height of 45" or so? I figure 34" anvil+7" die+1" pad under anvil+3" plate base=45"
If you do go the steel plate route I would at least saw cut the slab around the footprint of the machine.
Rob

Larry, I can post whatever pics you would like to see of the base of my 2b on its 3" plate. I think the time involved in making the base would be the same either way you go. A 4b is a hard hitter and even on a 3" plate would likely do damage to a concrete slab under it, I am guessing you will not use it for light work. Therefore why put the effort into a steel base when you will most likely have to do concrete work to support the machine? If it was me I would make the foundation removable so when you get your own place you can take it with you. How tall is the anvil on a 4B?
Rob

You did not say how many pieces need to be bent. Heat and sand would be good for a few but a bending jig to support the pipe cold for larger quantities. All you need to bend it with sand is something round of the proper size to wrap it around, the sand inside gives all the support needed. That small size you might be able to do cold with the sand packed in it.
Rob

Yes 3/8" not 1/4", it was late last night... Thanks Jimmy
Tube,pipe,The difference is how the size is called out. Pipe sizes are standardized so that the threaded fittings will work when the pipe end is threaded to fit the fittings. Pipe is not usually interchangeable with tubing due to its odd outside dia. As I said most people are confused here.
Rob

Sand inside the pipe is a good way to go but it must be DRY, lay it in the sun in a thin layer to dry. Also do not refer to PIPE as being 5/8 od call it by its pipe size, without looking it up I would guess you have 1/4" schedule 40 black pipe. When you mention the OD that is referring to TUBING, which is measured by the outside diameter. Most people are easily confused on this, and it is important to not get pipe and tubing mixed up even though they are almost the same thing.By calling them their proper names gives you more credibility as well. Hope this is helpful for you.
Rob