IronFist

Great designs AM! Good execution of curvature and detail. Thanks for sharing.

Good looking blade! What were your processes/ methods? Did you forge a harder strip for the edges sake? What is the length, width, and thickness of it? Does the tang extend through? Did you polish it? Is it oil or water quenced?Will there be a fuller along the top edge? Is it patterned or your own design, because I was going to say it looks like a seax. In my opinion, you have crafted a fairly straight, blade with a purpose. My only critiques would be instead of a screw attatchment, use round headed rivets for added grip or recessed rivets for a sleek handle. And the crossguard seems a bit small. Does it provide good coverage to the soft of the fist? Thanks for sharing!

I've also used a hand bending fork, applying force the opposite direction of the scroll.

Kallsme'n- that is one AWESOME ring!! Great photos, brother. Thanks for sharing. What do you think your heat reached accomplishing this? And what is this for?

I've seen something like this in a mill that I used to do contract welding in, but it may have been on a bit larger scale. It was for heat dispersal on high heat machines. Kind of like the fins on a motorcycle cylinder/ head. Other than that- couldn't tell you! Where did you find it?

My forge is not that old or ' broken in' to say( had it since X-mas), yet ever since I recieved it, a few things I've questioned. It's a 2-burner LP gas forge. I have fixed the simpler things, but the main concerns I have are the burners themselves and the fire brick. Burners- I understand that I can adjust/ tune the burners, but the blast, looking through the port windows, doesn't seem to be EXTREMELY strong. I have a good fire and heat( forging temp. reached in about 3-4 minutes), yet the flame on one port is a slighter blue than the other. As if this burner is not pushing as much gas as the other. Is the flame supposed to be more blue or more orange? Fire Brick- OK, this is the bigger problem, I believe. When I fire my forge up and let it warm up prior to work, it seems to heat up fairly quick and hot, brick and all. Now, when I set my iron in the forge, and it warms to a dull red, upon removal of the iron, there is a cold spot on the brick. And I mean cold, almost shadow black. The windows on my forge are open to where the iron lays on the brick, not suspended above it. I used to work in the boiler systems( refuse recyclers) up and down the eastern seaboard, and inside of the furnace area is lined with refractory brick, which looks alot what is in the floor of my forge. But refractory brick repells heat and is not fire brick in a forge formulated to hold heat? Thanks for listening and help me out if you can.

I didn't know how to edit the original title so forgive me. Well I finished refacing my new anvil. Here are some before and after pics.

Thanks everyone for the tips and replys! I'll try the suggested first, then have to move to a bigger tank purchase.

Yes, unfortunately, I do not have enough cash for the bigger LP gas tank. Would it be plausible to keep thetank I have in a warm water bath whilst I use it to keep the frost off?

Great achievement, friend! Will you be etching the face with some knotwork? Have you tried it out yet? Thanks for sharing!

I keep having a confusing problem with my forge. The LP tank keeps frosting over when I'm forging, so I have to shake the tank back and forth to get proper heat back in the fire. I could understand this if it were cold all the time, but I live in South Carolina. It was 57* today! Is this common? Or should I raise the tank up off the concrete floor? Help me!! I'm wasting time and fuel waiting on a good heat.

I just recieved a new anvil, 100# Hay Budden, date unknown, and it needs some face work. First, it seems to have been laying on its side and has weathered one edge somewhat. Whomever owned it last, tried to repair weld it with the incorrect rod ( signs of severe porosity it the welds)/ wire. I believe it is a drop forged anvil vs. cast due to company manufacture and signs of being forged similar to the one we use at work, which is a forged Kohlswa. My main concern is what rod/ wire to use for repair? I do not think a 7018 rod/ 70s wire will work, will it? Or should I use a nickel/ steel rod with a good preheat? If this is done correctly,I really believe this will be a good functional anvil.

I have always used a 20' stinger lead that's made from a discarded TIG lead and have never had ANY problems. Granted, that was when I was welding in the boilers for a living, but we used to string leads 100 -200 feet from machine to worksite and had very few problems. The only REAL problem was when someone would unplug you and steal your lead!! GRRRRRR!!

Hello fellow smiths! I just joined the forum and thought I would say hello.

Hello fellow smiths. I just joined the forum and thought I would post.