Don A

Based on one of my earlier posts, I would really appreciate it if any and all would elaborate on techniques for forging a uniform right-angle. Let's say 1/2" or 5/8" square stock in a coal forge only; no torch. Always seems to be more than one way to skin a cat. Don

That'll do. Thanks to you both. I have a 4" section of a 2" hex bar with a hole where a pin went. It is exactly 1/2", so there's my monkey. I appreciate it, Don

Like Chris said, I simply modified a set of ring pliers, and they work great. Kinda like this: Only mine are not good German tools. They were 2 for $9.95 at Tractor Supply. One straight jaw, one was bent 90 degrees. I cut the plastic grips off of the handles. Don

I have a job to make 15 primitive strap hinges and pintles. The hinges are 16"x2" with a simple fish-tail fineal. I'm nearly done with them. I'll post some pics when I'm finished. Anyhow, I need to make some pintles like this: Colonial Pintle The picture is a dug artifact, and the spike is bent... mine will be straight. I've got a couple things in mind, but I wanted to run it past you all before I got started. Again, I've got 15 to do, and time is money, so I am looking for the most efficient process I can come up with. The hinge part will be 1/2", the spike needs to be about 4". Thanks in advance, Don

There was a man who retired from here several years ago. He was a lineman and a farmer. He was known for his unusual inventions. They said he once invented a tobacco boot. He attached a "V" shaped blade to the toe of his right boot. That way, he would just walk up to each plant and kick it at ground level to cut it. Apparently, the idea never took off. Mighta' had something to do with the effects it had on the left foot.

You need to search around and find Len Landrum's heat-treat specs for 52100. Just ask around the Knife Network Outpost. I've watched him demo his process at Bowie's hammer-in, and he certainly knows that steel very well. Don

I've got a 100A sub-feed from my house to my shop. I want to put a receptical for my welder (Lincoln 225) in my forge/shed which will be about a 50' run (underground; in conduit) from the shop. I plan to feed from a 50A breaker and run #6 stranded copper. Do I need to run a ground (4th) wire, or simply two hots and a neutral? Thanks, Don

Everybody that owns a pc need convert.exe I think you can get it here for free: Convert @ joshmadison.com I keep a shortcut for it on my desk-top and use it all the time. Don p.s. if you can't download it, let me know and I can email it to you. It's only 453kb.

Just a couple observations: Yes, it needs to be tapered. It does not need to be too long. Make a few (and use 'em) and you'll determine what's best. If it is getting locked up, you are probably staying in the hot piece too long. I always keep a cup or dipper full of water near the anvil. I usually strike 3 times, then cool the punch... strike 3 times, cool the punch... so on. This will prevent heat transfer and deformation of your punch. Hope this helps, Don

I'm with QC. I recycle files for my firesteels, and I use a water quench, no temper. I only quench the striking edge, and kinda move it up and down a little in the water... I think this helps avoid cracking. I hold the edge in the water until the body of the striker is reasonably cool. After hardening, be absolutely sure you sand or grind the striking edge 'til it's shiney. The scale & decarb layer will kill your spark. Don

You might tray a trailer ball? I've needed a round surface before and used a 2" trailer ball in the anvil. I had to grind past the stamped lettering on the top of the ball and polish it up before I used it. I've got one of the EuroAnvils with the 3 pritchel holes, and the trailer ball shaft fits the big one perfectly. Not fancy, but it works. Don

I just got word that Vance Baker had passed away a couple days ago. He was a blacksmith who lived in Athens, Tennessee. I figured some of you might have met him over the years. He taught regularly at John C. Campbell Folk School. I only got to work with him a couple times, but he was a good one. Don

Good looking rig. No turning back now. One suggestion: find yourself some real charcoal and get rid of the briquets. You will be amazed at the difference. You can make your own or find it in the grill section of most of the big stores. Keep it up, Don

Anybody familiar with Radnor oxy/acetylene torches? I have the opportunity to buy one... brand new, and according to what I have seen online, a good deal. It also comes with free lessons. Looks like this: Radnor welding/cutting outfit What do you think? Don

If you're near Asheville, NC, you'll be close to Kayne & Son / Blacksmith Depot. Hammers, tongs, and all sorts of toys. You might want to call before you go, just to be sure they are open. Don

"We strive for perfection, but settle for excellence." Don

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Here's some really good info: Hawk tutorials / Fogg's forum Don

Welcome. Where you from? Don

I like bottom blast for coal, side blast for charcoal. I have some pictures of my fabricated charcoal side-blast if you want to see 'um. Let me know, Don

A couple how-to's: Mosaic Pins etc NorthCoast Knives Tutorials: Hints and Tips Page 3 Don