kashmire

ive never taken the screw out completely but i greased it well when i first got and it turns smooth, so i assumed it was fine. do you think i should take it out and examine it?

this is my post vice. the pictures dont show the extent of the damage time has done but it gives you a good idea. mostly im worried about the scalloping under the fixed jaw and the fact that the jaws dont meet square (unless thats normal for post vices im not sure). ideas on repairing or do you think i should just leave it the way it is?

or paint john deere in yellow on the side... no, definetly loose the paint. i used rustolium high heat black on mine

make friends with a your local HVAC company most of the scraps they find useless i find fantastic, i get all my black pipe from them. if they do old boiler rip outs and stuff, tell them to call you with where it is and you can get all kinds of stuff.

that would make my whole shop and 75% of my weapons and about 50% of my house and my 10 year old evil... hmmm... and a few friends, lol

the scale thing takes time and observation, its easier to control running propane like i do for small pieces, and im working on a new coal forge design to help me with fire managment and efficiancy for larger pieces. your work looks really good for your first time and rebar alot of times is a rough one to work if your unfamiliar with temps and how its going to react to hammer blows. i tried working a piece of high carbon 5/8 rebar in the first few days of having my first forge set up and almost blew out my elbow because the temp i thought i had... i didnt! i couldnt use my arm for like 2 days. keep at it... you can only get better from here.

your kidding? decoration? i do thrown weapons SCA style and i would soooo.... throw that as a regular piece in my reprituar... it looks good and if you say it has a good rotation... well then!

the idea of a dragon crawling out of an anvil sounds really cool for a tattoo... "I'm going to have to draw that up...." sounds like a nice piece for my arm possibly my calf... hmm... choices?!?!?!?!

in the mans defense i will say i have seen several designs of throwing "hammers". some with full rings. some leather straps. the "industry standard" has become the d-ring handle because most throwers prefer it. and im not saying safety should not be first priority. because it is, as always, the precursor to everything. and the bolts that ive seen are not welded to the ball. they have a high torsion bolt that runs through the center so different weight set ups can be used in training an so on. after all that is said i still dont know if i trust the quik connects. ( ive seen them fail in too many instances for no apparent reason) but the half inch bolt should be ok. i would definetly examine the equipment after EACH throw to detirmine if the bolt size would have to be increased.

if you cant get it as thin as you want it with a punch and its at the end of a piece. i do it cold with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel.

i use a 4 1/2" angle grinder for almost everything. grinding wheels for serious metal eating and flap disks rock for finishing aspects.

given the properties of Ti, and the lack of edge holding abilities. i would suggest, if you really wanted to make a sword w/Ti, a blade for staged combat. it can take the abuse... it Ti ! and at that point you wouldn't put an edge on it anyway. just a slight taper to give the illusion of an edge. its ability to hold up to a "live steel" performance would probably depend highly on the tempering techniques used. Ive done staged combat for several years and used many weapons that where and where NOT intended for that purpose. id be interested to see how it would hold up...

250# or 350# means very little to me at this point. the anvil was a steal as far as im concerned. i just ground down the face a few days ago to eliminate the pitting that was on the surface when i got it. until i started doing thinner work the pitting didnt matter. but im super impressed by the condition based on the age. i will be looking for a smaller anvil sometime in the future for demos, something i can travel with. ill be dropping you a line when the time comes. and all the new smithing enthusiasts i run into locally i tell them when they need an anvil to let me know so i can pass on your info to them.

yes i bought it from you. and i assumed it pushed 350 to 400# because it pulled a *TILT* on a digital scale rated to 350#.

i bought this anvil from a guy local to me for around $350 (its been a while i dont remember the numbers) she weighs in around 400#. and the only identifiable marking is found on the one side and im not even sure what it used to be...

ive found that if you can get your hands on old horseshoeing rasps (i find them at junk/yard sales for like 50 cents to a dollar) they make excellent tomahawk style hatchets. and if your going to buy cooking charcoal, buy the hardwood lump charcoal. i find that works best on the fly when i cant get any good coal or coke in my area. and i know a few guys that run medieval forge demos and thats all they use.

no that was not me... but i haven't been into downtown Bethlehem in about 5 years. so i may have to go check out what you speak of, it may end up fruitful. thanks for the good eye ;)

my buddy uses a collapsible tripod made out of black iron pipe. its a sweet rig and im looking to make my own. if i get it done any time soon ill drop a pic or 2.

Hi, I,m new to the forum. You can call me Kash. I'm an amateur smith in the Lehigh Valley area of eastern PA. Most of the stuff i work in is junk and scrap i find in random dumpsters and barn sales. I have a few special orders for the season that require actual bar stock. i was wondering if anyone was familiar with any suppliers in this area that would give me a good price.