david lange Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 I have a champion 400 forge blower and it is tight and runs smooth but pretty dry looking in the grease hole. Two questions. How much lube do you put in the case and how do you get the case open? Does the top part of the case come off? I see a line in the casting but it does not lift off. I dont want to pound on it. I havent been able to drag the thing in out of the weather yet so have not taken it apart. Just planning ahead. Thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 There's an oil port on top of the case. Put a few drops of 30wt oil in it at the beginning of the session and another couple after lunch. If you try filling the case you'll have a big puddle on the floor by tomorrow. If you live in cold country 10wt or ATF or arctic hydraulic fluid or . . . whatever that'll stay soft or even liquid will be fine. These blowers were intended to last decades being lubricated with pretty much what was at hand. Things like gear lube or grease tend to be too heavy. Oh they'll work but you'll wear yourself out mooshing the stuff around the gears. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 If I remember correctly the 400 has a hidden screw on the top of the case. You need to gently tap it forward to get the top off. For lube I use a 50/50 mix of non detergent 30 wt and Marvel mystery Oil. My Canedy Ottos have a fill to plug that tells you when you have enough oil in them. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo33 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 The top does come off. There should be two machine screws on the top down near the casting for the blower fins. Take these screws out. The top casting then slides backwards to come off. It rides along a groove. When I first got mine, I had to tap it lightly with a few mallet blows to loosen it. Be careful! As far as lubrication. I haven't found the blower to be too picky. As stated above, 30 wt. oil would work fine. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lange Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Thank you gents. I will scrape the crud off the case and see is i can find those screws. I did look down into the oil hole and the gears look good but dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkormat42 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I see you got it but I'll post this for posterity. Number 19 of the attached Fig. 2 shows you the machined screws mentioned. Number 18 is the "hidden screw". Its inside the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I have found that if you have a leaky case that outboard motor transmission oil workes well. I even used an stp clone which worked better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 i have a lancastor 400 use 1/2-1/2 30 and hyd- but it has bushings on the out side- little leak but if ya get a bucket of coal fines to absorbe it.... better fines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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