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I Forge Iron

2 HF Saw Mods (for the price of 1)


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Due to pics I will split this in 2 seperate mods.

The first is a table for free hand sawing, my Dad had one and I copied it. So I can't take full credit for it, just my version. The one that comes with it has the slot in front, which makes sawing small stock out of the question.

It clamps in the vice, and mine I made one of the other table screws fit for stability.

The table is 12 gauge, 10 x 16 inches, with a slit in the back for the blade, I made the slit with a cutter wheel on a 4" grinder. I used a piece of heavy flat bar to get the cut nice and straight.

For the bottom piece I used 1 1/2 channel, and welded a piece of 1 inch square tube for the upright. I left the upright over length, and clamped it in the vice and used a square to determine how high it should be, and cut it off.

I put the table on and marked where the upright rested and tacked and checked it, had to take 2 tries to get it right.

Then I clamped it up in the saw and marked the back screw hole, mine was a quarter inch hole, and I countersunk the top.

I painted it with multple coats of flat black, so I could mark on it with soapstone. You could also clamp a piece on angle iron to use for a saw "fence".

SAFETY: Always use a push block when sawing near the blade, the blades on these leave a nasty jagged cut.

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This mod is a table for the "outfeed" side of the saw with a quicker stop.

The table is 4 inches by 16 starting size. I drilled two holes 3/8 holes in the end of the plate by eye, then drilled and tapped the end to the saw for 5/16 bolts. Place these holes carefully, the casting for the old stop is pretty big on the back, stay away from it.

I then slit the plate far enough through to bend it to the angle that made the table on the level with the existing table, this took some trial and error, but I left enough material so it bent pretty hard, but right on the cut. I then ran a mig bead up the outside of the angle, and ground it off flush.

I then added the stiffener rod 3/8 square up the center.

For the clamp I used a piece of angle iron, drilled a hole and welded a nut, and the "T" handle on a bolt, I used a 3/8 bolt.

I used my vice to create the offset pieces for the underside, and clamped and moved them until it fit snug, but slid with little effort. I then welded them 100%.

You can also use a vice grips to keep the outbound end stable and keep it from hitting the floor....

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I like the first one. have the plate to build it ...just need some warm weather and its a done deal. I really like it . the other one I'm not sure if it would work any better than the stop on the saw...tell me more about it


The biggest problem I had with the stop that came on the saw is it was in the way, and you had to have a wrench to move it and one hand to hold it, then tighten the other with a wrench. I only have 2 hands and end up balancing the tape measure, set it, check it, move it again, use the fine adjustment. I added a longer rod to mine, and the setscrew kept cominig loose. This stop is slide on and slide off, with a T-handle hold down. The other thing is with irregular shaped stuff, you slide the stop off the end, and you can tong to the table with vice grips, which for long stock, it keeps it from falling on the floor when the cut goes through. I had that "Ping Ping Ping" when stock hits the floor when I am trying to do something else.

I only use the stop on occasion, like when I have 5 or more of something to cut, otherwise I measure, mark and cut the first, and use it to gauge the other couple of pieces.
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