PICKETTR Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 I am a woodworker by hobby, but i also do volunteer work at a pre-revolutionary farm. I, along with others, have built a replica of the family's 1st log cabin, corn crib, root cellar, and blacksmith shop ( he was a blacksmith when he migrated to the carolinas). While we have built the structure for a small (open on 3 sides) shop for period-life demonstrations. We do not yet have a design for period accurate forge. I have several photos of other forges, (mostly from the mid 19th century) but i don't have good plans for a period accurate forge. I have plans for a double chamber bellows, and i will be building that soon. For the past few years, we have had offer of some local blacksmiths that said they would help, but so far, no one has come through. If there is any one out there that could help, i would appreciate it!:d Quote
Frosty Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 While I can't say for sure I'd imagine it was field stone masonry with a side blast and side draft chimney. There is or was one on my wife's farm in the UP of Mi that was all field stone and mud mortared. The blast and draft were long gone but I was able to find the space left by the tuyere iron and some of the chimney was left. There was also an opening in the wall with some framework outside that made me think there was a small waterwheel too. It's what I'd build if I didn't have specific data on what was in use. Any other construction would require either buying materials or more work making them. You could check out Colonial Williamsburg for a period forge. Frosty Quote
Frosty Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 Here's an example of what I'm talking about using a combination of brick and stone though it's a bottom blast. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f11/first-fire-more-fire-but-little-heat-9107/#post87524 I knew I'd seen one recently. Here, yesterday. Go figure. Frosty Quote
wolfshieldrx Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Got some pix from Jamestown and Colonial W'berg. Will see if I can find them! Quote
wolfshieldrx Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Hope these are helpful. I just completed a brick forge of my own...no pictures yet, but i think it is pretty traditional. Quote
Frosty Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Beautiful, the Jamestown forge is basically what I was talking about. Williamsburg had some pretty impressive industry for the day. A frontier forge would've been made as much as possible from local materials. Frosty Quote
wolfshieldrx Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 By the way...the middle three pix are Jamestown. Quote
David Einhorn Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Your efforts are wonderful and should be commended.we have built the structure for a small (open on 3 sides) shop for period-life demonstrations. I have yet to hear of a blacksmith shop that is open on any side. Sounds like a problem with both accuracy and functionality.We do not yet have a design for period accurate forge:d Depends on the type of work he did. General smithing including fixing wagon wheels would require a side draft forge where you can lean large tires against the chimney and rotate them. Function determines form. Determine the smith's use of the forge and the available materials in your location at that time and that will determine its design. Were bricks available? Was field stone available? What were houses during that time period made from? Once you have determined whether brick or stone is appropriate (dry stone only, not stone from streams or riverbeds) then everything else follows. The basic masonry forge is an arch with a flat top and flat sides. The arch allows access to the firepot and removal of burned fuel. At the back of this masonry table is the chimney. A general purpose blacksmith chimney that allows repair of wheels is a side draft chimney that draws from the side, and does not have an overhead smoke hood because a smoke hood would prevent leaning iron tires against the chimney as they are heated and rotated in the fire. The flue pipe would be 10 or preferably 12 inches in diameter in order to have enough draw to pull smoke in from the side. The firepot would be located close to, but *not* inside the chimney opening... so that the smoke is drawn into the chimney and the firepot is not obstructed by the chimney. For the past few years, we have had offer of some local blacksmiths that said they would help, but so far, no one has come through. If there is any one out there that could help, i would appreciate it! That sometimes happens. To encourage active participation, your best bet is to: 1) Contact a local blacksmith guild/club. 2) Join the club yourself and go to meetings. 3) Take at least a beginners course. 4) Get a local guild involved in the design of the smithy from the ground up. As a woodworker you would probably not find it rewarding to work in and otherwise be involved in a historic woodworking shop designed by someone who has never worked with woodworking tools, especially a shop and tools without protection from the weather, theft and vandalism. Blacksmiths are attracted to volunteer and help with historic shops that have four walls, lighting, a good forge setup with enough tools that they don't have to unload a truckload of equipment each time they visit, and enough space to be able to work without tripping over tools and historic displays. My shop is designed based on a wheelwright's shop. Smithy at one end. The other end is woodworking equipment with two wood lofts. Local guild in NC mentioned on the ABANA web page is the NORTH CAROLINA CHAPTER at ncabana.org Contact information is: Pres:Jimmy Alexander 922 Lakeside Dr. Durham, NC 27712 (919) 477-8701[email protected] * Ed: Marty Lyon 220 Fearrington Post Pittsboro, NC 27312 (919) 642-0098[email protected] Quote
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