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I Forge Iron

seax-like chopper

Dave Budd

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I've been puttingthis one together on and off for a while and I thought I would share the end result here (sorry, it's not a RR spike or shiny ats34 number :rolleyes:)

The blade was forged alongside a student one day (he wanted to make a really big blade to take away and finish :rolleyes: ) and is edgequenched EN45. 10" blade, 15" over all and not sharp yet.

The handle was put on bit by bit over the following month or so leading up to the Midland Game Fair. Desert Ironwood and buckeye burl, the main pins are 3/16 brass with a ring of aluminium and brass around them. The centre pin is an assymetrical mosaic (I'll find a photo in a bit). The handle is a morticed construction with red/white/red liners between the bits of wood, but they didn't show in the pic as the layers are quite fine card

Then the sheath has been decorated and finished when idol in front of the telly over the last few weeks. My first attempt at relief moulding and binding with copper wire :D That's 7 feet of 1/16th (whatever gauge that is) eletrical wire. I'm considering binding the edges of the frog in the same fashion but with thinner wire. what do people think?

Over on British Blades there has been mixed opinions about the copper wire. I'm still not sure, but I think I like it


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I'm usually not a fan of large blades for practical reasons but I'd make an exception for a nice seax like this. We do have need of machetes in the bush here and I usually shorten the blades to 14-16" and grind it to a drop point (reverse belly?) out of my own preference.

If anything a little texturing on the copper wire might improve the look. Then again, might not. I like it and think a little patina will make it excellent.


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thanks guys.

I fancied giving wire a try, just for the heck of it really. It needed annealing every 3 or 4 holes, but it wasn't as tough as I expected. I expect the patina will help too, I don't think I'll artificially age the copper though (don't want th xxxx on my sheath :lol: )

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