Rodded or handled?

[philip in china]

For top sets of anvil tools- swages, fullers etc. which is better rodded or handled? What are anydody's thoughts please? I have always made rodded ones but mainly because I don't really understand wood very well.

[Rob Browne]

I always use rodded as I have everything on hand when I am making the tool to make the handle at the same time.

[Finnr]

I do handled..................... because I can.
Finnr

[HWooldridge]

In general, I have a selection of ring tongs and hold very short tool bits with them. I do have several rodded tools and only some with wooden handles. It takes much less time to make a rodded tool so I seldom take the time to punch an eye on something that may get used only a few times.

[woodreaux]

Rod handles that are welded on require the tool be normalized back through the weld or it will most likely pop off. I like metal rods for handles m'self, so does lightning!

[rstegman]

Sorry for butting in, but thought this would be a place to learn something.
I have no idea what it is that you are talking about here.
What is a handled and what is rodded, and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each?

[matt87]

Rstegman, the discussion is about 'set' or 'top' tools, i.e. handled tools designed to be placed on top of the work and struck with a hammer. The handle keeps your hand away from radiated heat and errant hammer blows. They are most often used when working with one or more strikers or a treadle hammer, but have some utility when working alone or with a power hammer. Examples include fullers, swages, set hammers, flatters, cutters/chisels and punches.

Set tools can be either punched and handled like a hammer (though the handle does not need to be as substantial or secure as for a hammer) or have a handle attached by wrapping the body of the tool with a iron or mild steel rod, or more historically, a withy.

[Sam Salvati]

I do handled..................... because I can.
Finnr

Ditto, though rodded would last much longer i think.

[TASMITH]

I think it depends more on the use of the tool. I used to like handled tools for use under a power hammer or when being struck repeatedly by my helper with a sledge hammer. I found the handles helped to absorb vibrations better than rodded rather than my hands or arms having to absorb them. I have used rodded tools as well but generally they were something I would use rarely or special made for a particular job that I may not do again for some time.
My two cents!...:D

[Matt in NY]

My thoughts (and these are just thoughts not experience) are if you are going to be using it often a handle will help with vibrations.

I have been thinking about this because I walk my dog in the morning in a spot were there is some Hazel growing. That is said to be quite supple and made good handles for such tools when some poor guy had to hold that tool all day.

[Bentiron1946]

I have used both. If you look around you will notice that handled tools are the ones missing their handle. That should tell us all a little something. I have a few old twisted rod handles. They have never broken and most likely never will. Maybe the smith will. Now why do all of these old tools loose their wood handles? Maybe wood is safer.

[evfreek]

I have heard that the rodded tools will fail slowly. In other words, the wrap will slowly work loose or the weld will eventually crack. But, handled tools can fail fast. I had an accident with a hot cutter. The assistant knocked the head off with an errant blow of the sledge. It spun off fast enough to go through a steel toed boot. But fortunately it missed and just snapped off the edge. But it was a store bought one, Champion, I recall. Ouch $$$

This taught me to always use a keeper. By the way, what is the proper way to deploy a keeper. Once up through the eye along the handle, then wrap and anchor outside the head?

[divermike]

The discussion of vibration may be at the very core of why we see so many rodded tools, the rod, if thin enough, can deflect much more than a solid wood handle, and thereby possibly prevent injury, I was taught to make small diameter rod handles for that very reason, with a striker or power hammer, if things get out of whack, the wood handle can hop, and bounce in ways that the rod handle will absorb and deflect, I prefer the feel of wood, but with my power hammer, I take no chances and use the rodded handles, I have many failed wood handles, never a rodded handle (yet).

[peacock]

You ask about top tools. If you are striking these with a hand hammer I think wood is better. the trick is do not wedge or otherwise make these wood handles tight in the tool. Leave an inch or so of handle stick out of the tool drill a small hole thru it for a small cross pin to keep the tool on the handle. This will allow the tool to settle into the work with out trasfering the shock to the handle or your hand. Also the wood handles will not break like they do when tight. Years ago I could not keep the handles on my set hammers and flatters from breaking. Tom Clark told me about leaving them loose and I have not broken a handle on a top tool since.

[Doug C]

This explains a lot about a bucket of tools I bought this summer. All the top tools had loose handles and I thought the farrier I bought them from must have been too busy or cheap to get 'proper' handles. Silly me. I am glad I read this before I re-handled them.

[peacock]

Now a thought on rodded tools. Rod handles are my choice for power hammer work. Cliffton Ralph taught me that the handle only needs to strong enough to hold the tool. Most tools will be best with 1/4 or 5/16 round mild steel. Leave at least 5 or 6 inches between the tool and handle grip this will let the handle flex and shield your hand. Form a grip for your hand that will help you align the tool. Try to avoid a design that will allow your fingers to pass thru so your fingers will not be broken in the event the tool twist or kicks out. Another advantage with small rods is you can bend them with ease to help you hold the tool at a 90 degree or other angle and still keep your arms and hands in front of you(much better control). Afterward you can striaghten them out.