Can rusty RR spikes be forged as is ?

[WannabeSmith]

Just yesterday I finished removing the rust from my Rail track anvil and another steel plate I plan to use for a wider flat surface. I also removed the rust from a rail spike. It's not as though it took long, but if I can cheat and do it. I would try it out myself to see, but I'm waiting for the clay in my washtub forge to dry .

Just curious, it seems like it'd be a bad idea, but maybe it will just result in clinker or something ? ~shrug~ that's what I'm hoping to find out. I tried searching the subject of forging rust coated metal but either it isn't there or the words are to common. I am talking about a rather thin layer of rust, but still fully browned.

Thanks in advance, it kills me that I can't just try it myself >

[Max Mulholland - Tetnum]

just use it the resulting clinker is almoast non exsistant
and most will stay on untill yhou hit it

[Glenn]

Forging heat will dislocate a lot of rust. Use a butchers block wire brush to remove the rest of the scale/rust before you start using the hammer.

[NOS]

I agree, just brush it off after you get it up to heat, then hammer away!
Also if you ever see any scale on the spike after bringing it out of the forge, be sure to brush it off. That will keep pits from forming as a result of hammering the scale into the steel. Keeping your work free from scale also keeps you safe. Scale will stick to your skin and burn ya if your not careful.
Good luck and stay safe :)

[David Einhorn]

It depends on the amount of rust, what you are forging, and whether the rust is uneven.

My humble observation is that the more refined the finished surface you are aiming for, the more concerned you will likely be about rust on your iron, scale on the anvil, as well as blemishes on the anvil or hammer surfaces. If you are hammering a tent stake such concerns are minimal. If you are aiming to have a knife with a mirror or etched finish, then such concerns increase dramatically.

[bigfootnampa]

I happen to LOVE the fire scale pits! I hate it when I have to grind a knife down so much, to get a proper edge, that it's all lost . I do NOT waste a minute dealing with rust on my iron, The fire renews all. Same when I get some burned metal... as long as there is enough thickness left to forge ahead (past the burn thinned sections) I do so. On the (rare) occasions when I want a clean surface I just continue to forge through the red heat cycle into the black heats and the surface refines as the metal cools (or I can always grind and/or polish a bit).

[WannabeSmith]

Awesome you guys thanks for the quick responses. It's a relatively thin coat of rust on em, I only asked because if it was recommended that I sand the rust off before hand I would have done all my current supply to be ready when I get my washtub forge dry.

I actually think I like the rust on going into the fire better as it will get me to be more alert to scale and the sort so I will get it quicker.

Thanks again guys!! Btw Bigfootnampa, from what I've seen I could certainly share your love for that less refined, more rough metal look I think you are talking about.!

Anyway, take care everyone!