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Tongs Questions


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I had a few questions about making tongs. There are great videos all over youtube about this so rather then trying to start from scratch I just need a few questions answered.

#1. Is 1/4 x 3/4 the best material for your average tong?

#2. About how long should handles be? Is it better to have some long and some short?

#3. Does tubing on handles work better then drawing out all that material into points? Does it cool faster? I tried welding some tubing recently onto pre-made tongs and it seemed a lot easier then doing all that pounding into tapers. If i had a power hammer maybe i wouldn't mind so much. Would tubing disperse heat from the handles faster?

#4. What are the first types of tongs I should make? I've looked at Hope Works' tongs and I thought i'd start with making some of those?

Generally right now I work with small items that have to be held very securely while detail is done on them. I've come to realize that it doesnt take much to hold things very tightly when you have a good pair of tongs. I made a metal clip that slides up the tongs handles only to find out that a simple velcro strap works just as well and is easier to manage.

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1) Entirely depends on what kind of tongs you want to make
2) Entirely depends on the kind of work your going to use them on
3) In my opinion No. Tubing would increase the rate at which heat from the bits travels down the length of the reign. Reigns made of tubing would get hotter faster, counterproductive. This is all moot if you quench the bits often enough to keep them cool.
4) Ones that work well for the job you made them for. Otherwise make a pair of wolf jaw tongs (Or universal tongs). They'll do the most for the work you put into them.

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I use 1/4"x1" flat and lay the tongs out so they are belly-to-belly (the inside edge when assembled) with the jaws on each end. In other words, the taper in the reins is already there after you chalk the outline. The transitions at the jaw/hinge and the hinge/handle are done hot with a small fuller then the blanks are cut apart while hot with a thinly sectioned but wide bladed chisel (about 2" wide by 1/16"). 1/4"x3/4" will work fine but have a little less meat around the hinge area.

This gives two pieces close to the same size. The jaws are twisted inward to 90 degrees at the hinge and the burrs left by the cutting are filed or ground away. All that is left is drilling the holes for the rivet, then assemblying the halves and final adjustment of the jaws.

For general purpose tongs, about 15 inches is OK for rein length with the hinge and jaw extra - so an 18" blank is a good start.

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The stress is on the transition at the jaw offset and the hinged joint. Forging will make for a stronger joint than twisting, particularly when heat and force are involved. The jaw design is determined by your planned application. If you are doing a production run, take the time and make the tooling for the job. I use either 3/4 or 5/8 square stock and forge the jaws, the offset and a short stub taper to roughly 1/2 - 3/8 square. Dedicate the time to assure that the jaws and the hinge joint is right. The reigns can be produced seperatly from 3/8 or 1/2 stock and welded on. I keep a supply of ready made (jaw) pairs on hand in the shop so we can quickly produce a speciality set of tongs if needed.
Peter

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Avadon, those were all good questions and like Ian said it strictly depends on what you need them for. The video I attached worked well for me. The first pair I made after watching this video was made with 3/16" x 3/4" I clamped the ends together with vice grips and worked both pieces at the same time to the back side of where the rivet was going to be. This way both pieces would be the same. You need to get to be very efficient in making tongs since they are going to have to be made pretty often till you get enough for most of your requirements. I have been hammering on hot steel for about 9 years and the tongs I made from watching this video were the first ones I was actually proud of.
YouTube - Forging Blacksmith Tongs

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