kenG Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 This is a anvil I inherited from my Grandfather a few years back. I recently pressed it back into service. It has considerable sentimental value to me and I was hopeing you guys could tell me anything about the age or type. I'm curious about the holes in the lower portion of the anvil and the stamp 1053 in the lower right bottom of the front. I assume it had a plate welded to the top that long ago broke off and the face redressed? Thanks in advance for any information. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Ken, If I am looking at that right, that square "plate" on the back is all that is left of the original face. Depending on the make of the anvil, except for that small square, all you have under the hammer is a block of iron. The part that is missing would have been "tool steel". That's where you would get all of your hardness and rebound. You could re-face it, but a sentimental piece might be better retired to a prominant spot in the shop and just find another anvil to do the work. I know this because when I was first starting out, some old codger at a flea market sold me an old Star anvil that had "real good" rebound. I didn't test it; I took his word for it. Like yours, it had most of the face missing. I ended up selling it to an antique dealer. Live & learn. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Looks like a Hay Budden. the holes you ask about are for porter bars while it was forged. The face is missing except for that little piece on the heel. What you have left there is either mild steel (soft) or wrought iron (Softer). any forging you do will ding it up pretty bad. Do you want to use it? Here is a case for welding up an anvil to get it back into action, or it can be used as is as a monument. My two cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLOB Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 it looks to me like it could be a hay budden also.....have you tried a rebound test on the stepped down face? my understanding is that later year hay buddens didnt have a "plate" on the face. the whole upper portion of the anvil was made of tool steel and hardened (not sure how deep the hardening went) and the base was wrought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenG Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Since I'm really green, I'm not sure what you mean by rebound test? I know I have beat all sorts of things on the stepped down part and it seems pretty hard. The ringing will hurt your ears. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenG Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 When the face plate broke off it seems there would have been a really jagged edge left. I assume somewhere down the line someone really cleaned it up to get a decent edge back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 The rebound test consists of dropping a 1" dia ball bearing on the face and estimating it's return bounce height as a percentage of the original height. Anvilfire has a good description of the test and results for verious brands of anvils. This was not a one piece top as if it was it wouldn't have delaminated like it has; also the serial number if pretty low for an HB and so it would be an earlier one. Can you flip it over and see if there is traces of the edges protruding slightly past the bottom to provide a rim? On early HB's this is sometimes worn away but the hourglass shape is quite indicative of an HB. If it was mine I would get it repaired and use it in honour of it's past usage in the family. It would need to be properly done by someone who knows what they are doing---not any run of the mill weldor who says they do! Correct preheat, correct rod/wire, correct postheat and not someone just gobbing over it with a hardfacing rod that cracks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenG Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Thomas, Are you talking about a picture of the bottom of the anvil? I'll try to get it tonight. Sounds like you are thinking the raised portion was welded on rather than a big piece being missing. Thanks for the response, Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 I think Thomas is saying that this face had more than one piece, possibly 3-4, to make up the face of the anvil. The face was forge welded to the body of the anvil. The 'really clean' area where the face was had to be just that, clean and smooth in order for the face to be welded on the top. If you are close to Memphis, check with the National Ornamental Metal Museum there, they have an anvil repair days and you could end up with a real nice anvil. Not sure what the cost, if any, would be. Also, tell them you heard about them on IFI! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenG Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Thomas, Thanks for the tip on Memphis. I looked and the repair days was last weekend. Day late and a dollar short I guess. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Typical construction method for old anvils was to weld up the base out of chunks of wrought iron, jump weld the horn and heel (and feet) on and then weld on a steel face in one or more pieces. As time went on the number of pieces used to create an anvil went down with single slab for the face welded to the upper section and a single piece for the base---3 pieces and then to the 2 piece with the face being a heat treated part of the top piece and then to 1 piece anvils. Not all brands did this evolution though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Thomas, Thanks for the tip on Memphis. I looked and the repair days was last weekend. Day late and a dollar short I guess. Ken That was for the 'antique' repairs day. My brother was asked to help with it but opted to come see me and my shop and then to our 85th family reunion in Cut-n-Shoot, TX. The anvil repair event may be on a different day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenG Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Here's two more pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLOB Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 its an Arm & Hammer made by the Columbus Anvil and Forging Company. from the "1053" stamped on the foot it looks to be made in 1900. if there is a missing digit after the 1053 it would be from 1901-1912 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 I would by all means weld the face back with hard facing rod if you can and if you have the materials accessible for cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenG Posted October 15, 2008 Author Share Posted October 15, 2008 Thanks for all the info guys! What would be the best way to get the remaining face plate off? Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Why? If you are going to weld up the face then that's free money! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenG Posted October 15, 2008 Author Share Posted October 15, 2008 So just build the face up with weld to the height of the remaining face? Not add a plate back on. I was misunderstanding. That's a good bit to build up! kEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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