A few weeks ago I won an old Champion post drill at online but local estate auction, sight unseen (since I didn't make it to preview) under $50 out the door.

This is partly a tool addiction, partly a homeschool project.

It was mostly frozen up, but otherwise intact.

It took a weekend, a can of PB Blaster, and a bit of plumbers torch heat to free it up and get it working again, then sat on the workbench for a few weeks until I could get it temporarily vertical in the carport. It'll get mounted out back later, but the guys at the weld shop wanted to try it out.

It works, the kids love it, but one question - you can see in the last photo, the cam and roller are both horribly grooved, Also the max range of motion of the rocker arm, is one tooth of advancement. I could either,

1. Build up the cam with weld bead and file it smooth, then turn a new roller on the lathe. But is the cam cast iron? I suppose me checking is more accurate than you guys guessing. I just don't want to weld on there and crack it.

2. Turn a new roller on the lathe that's a bit oversized, to get more throw on the advance mechanism.

Once there's more throw on the advance, there's an adjustment screw to decrease the amount of feed when appropriate.

 

We'll plasma cut a new table for this too as it really needs good workholding.

I also learned, you need to mount these with the crank axle no more than shoulder height. So I need to move it lower on my post.

 

Probably cast iron; brazing is your friend!

13 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Probably cast iron; brazing is your friend!

How about JB Weld?!!

I don't think JB Weld would hold up very long, although easy to replace and give you an idea how much to build up.

Here it is, finally mounted.

After freeing everything up and getting it working, I made a table from a drop of 3/4" plate from a plasma table (already round!).

Then I turned a handle for it from free cherry firewood.

Works great, now lets see if I'll ever use it.

I am curious if it'll be good for tapping holes, by disengaging the big nut that connects the spindle to the feed screw, the spindle should float. The crank gives good forward and reverse control, while the sloppy fit of the spindle bearings will allow the tap to float where it wants too.