hibjib10987 Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 When ever i am making some thing that envolves a blade or gets thinner than bout 2/16 it burns. I know to not keep it in too long but my problem is thati want to know if any one can give me anyvisual signs that happen right before it burns. i burn a coal forge and often can't see the metal. If you can give me any suggestions other than " Just take it out before it burns you big dummy duh" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 If your heating something 1/8 thin in a coal forge, turn the blower on to keep the coal hot, and when you put the workpiece in, turn the blower off. At 1/8 thick, it'll heat up to the temperature of its surroundings before the surroundings cool down too very much (i use this trick when working out spatula blades and such things). As far as "seeing" the metal, build a cave type fire, or poke a SMALL hole through the coke layer on the top of the fire to where you can see the steel. Signs to look for before burning: little bitty sparks coming from the steel. -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 Build a nice deep fire, get it nice and hot then put in your piece and turn off the blower. It'll be warm enough in no time flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironrosefarms Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 I agree... I just finished a spear, the blade and socket was one piece. Fanning out a half inch bar to be just over 3" wide makes for some pretty thin metal. I had concerns that even with just letting the piece lay in the fire and "soak" up the heat might be too much for this area that was about as thick as two business cards on top of each other thick... but I had no problem at all. Keep the air off the fire when the thin stuff is in. The only problem I had was with the "fan" shaped socket fully drawn out it took a while to soak up the heat as it was actually large enough and the right shape that it deflected the heat. It took a couple heats to get the socket wrapped around because of this but burning wasn't an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inazuma_x Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 (edited) make sure to keep the piece out of the oxidation layer ie. try to keep it higher in the coals. also try to keep the thin stuff pointing up rather than down...then the thick stuff will be closer to the heat than the thin stuff... you can also try heating it in stages by taking it out and letting the thin edge cool and then putting it back in...it will gradually build up heat and be evenly soaked rather than the edge being white hot and the thicker bits being almost totally unheated... Edited August 29, 2008 by inazuma_x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 If you put thin sections in a fire with no air supplied then it will be in a reducing fire which is desirable. Its only when you pump air through a fire you get an oxidising fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratel10mm Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 I'm not sure if this would be ok for controlling the carbon content, but with mild steel I generally just open up the fire a bit & lay the small / thin / delicate bit on top where I can keep an eye on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 1: if you have an electric blower look into getting a hand crank one 2: while waiting for a hand crank one to show up, put in a foot switch for the blower so it only runs while you are standing on it---SOFA uses these for their forges and it saves a LOT of coal and steel as it forces you to "be there" when the piece is heating 3: don't get in a hurry, turn down the air flow---you want to run the fire reducing for knifemaking anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.