Need help…. New blacksmith

[Weav33]

So I’m 16 years old and experimenting around with forging knives. I invested in a propane forge an anvil a bench grinder, sander, and a couple other miscellaneous tools. I actually managed to come out with a decent looking knife that I made from some scrap flat bar I got from my trade school I go to. The knife didn’t come out all that bad…… after watching a lot of YouTube videos and lots of internet research I managed to put it into a nice shape. Here’s where I get stuck and need the help. First off my blade has hammer marks on both sides, they aren’t horrible but kind of an eyes sore. Second off what is the best way to sharpen the knife. I’ve heard so many different ways I don’t rlly know what to do. I do have a 1x30 bench top belt sander with an assortment of belts but not really sure how to use it. And 3rd what is a good coating I can put on my blade so it doesn’t look ugly and deformed. Spray paint?, powder coat?, I’m open to anything thanks………

[George N. M.]

Dear Weav, welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming.  If you put your location in your profile we will be able to give you better answers.  A surprising number of answers are geography dependent.  We don't know if you are in Tasmania or Siberia.  Also, there may be someone within visiting distance than can assist in person.  There is nothing like in person learning.

A few thoughts.about your blade.  First, if you use bar stock from school it is probably mild (low carbon) steel which does not make a good blade because it doesn't harden enough.  The best you could do is quench it in "super quench," the recipe is available via a google search.  It will harden mild steel as much as is possible.  A mild steel blade will dull quickly.

Second, hammer marks need to be removed by either grinding or filing.  Look up "draw filing" which will give a pretty nice finish.

You will have to experiment with different methods of sharpening.  I usually use my belt grinder with a fine grit (400 or so) belt.  Other folk like to use hand stones and ceramic rods.  There is a lot of mythology and prejudice (e.g. Ford vs. Chevy, etc.) when it comes to knife sharpening and most methods work and give you a sharp blade.  You may find one method more satisfying than others.

I have never particularly liked much of any finish on a blade other than plain steel.  If you are in a corrosive environment, e.g. salt water, you may want to keep the blade oiled or use a cold gun blue to give it a rust resistant finish.  There are other elaborate finishes but IMO they are for looks rather than utility.  No finish will cover up "ugly and deformed."

Good luck and show us photos.  We LOVE pictures.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand." 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains. I can't add anything to George N.M. post.

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard Weav, glad to have you. I believe George covered it nicely, I'll need to wait for more from you to have anything new to say. 

Well, there is one thing, Developing your hammer control will go a long way towards minimum hammer marks in your work and that comes with practice. Spend lots of time at the anvil hammering is the ticket.

Frosty The Lucky.

[ThomasPowers]

Not an unknow problem; Moxon quoted in his 1703 book, "Mechanicks Exercises": "If a good blade you would win, you must forge thick and grind thin".   Using modern steels and heat treating we can actually forge quite close to shape WITH EXPERIENCE!  Make sure your hammers are properly dressed and your anvil is at the correct height for YOU and go practice practice practice!  I suggest new blade smiths start off by taking a low mileage pickup coil spring and cutting down a diameter and forging a blade from each of the 20 or so ")" pieces trying to make each one better---and also trying different heat treats on them to see what works best!