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Anvil Identifications, 300lb +/- minimal markings/stamps

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Howdy everyone,

Just brought home a big honker at roughly $2.75-$3/lb to supplement the 1928 soderfors i have in the shop. Anvil has been on display in a garden bed for the last 5 years, apparently previous owners father was a welder and paralyzed after a chain broke and he was crushed under the material. Went on to blacksmith in a wheel chair for many years after and this was his main work anvil for his career.

Now to the main details:

Anvil weighs about 300lbs, i havent weighted it yet, stand was welded on to the feet to mount to a stump

only discernible stamp on the entire anvil says “_____ wrought” in circular pattern. Im assuming that would be solid wrought but its not clear.  On the same side there is what looks to be part of a “P” above the stamp.  These are the only identifiers other than the hollow base and overall configuration, london pattern, etc. 

I am assuming a peter wright, but any help would be appreciated.  Happy forging to all and thank you for the help.  






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Peter Wright did NOT use a hollow base; Peter Wrights did have the stepped foot.  Peter Wrights tend to look a bit more beefy than that. (I just sold a 248# PW; I'll see if I can add a picture of it.)

The Hourglass indentation can be found on Trenton's and Hay Buddens.

anvil8.jpg.a9d725edc0d6a97de4b899362ce646f8.jpg 248#  (2  0  24 CWT) Peter Wright---clearly stamped.

Thicker waist and stepped feet.

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It has the shape of a Trenton, if you look at the anvil review by brand category and Trenton History, the solid wrought circle matches. What you are calling a "P" could be the top part of the R. Looks like the front edge of the front foot was flame cut to fit the stand. That's where the serial number would have been.

My vote is Trenton.

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Thanks everyone, i figured the hourglass on the bottom would be a good startin point. Other than some misc info im not an an anvil historian. And yes, odd choice to shave the feet down for a stand. When i did the pre purchase inspection this was one of my comments. This thing has had alot of use, one edge is pretty great and the other is much more beat. Never been a mill the face flat type of person, these things all add to character and in my experience dont alter performance i need overall. Other than rounding over a couple sharp spots this baby will be the work horse, so my Soderfors can be saved for the finer stuff (my pride and joy, pulled from my uncles farm property under a pile of lumber for a couple decades). The rebound is around 75% and it will outlast me im sure. Trenton seems like a great guess and thanks for the info. 

Happy forging

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Larger anvils often are "well worn" as they tended to be used in an industrial settings with 8-12 hour days of strikers swinging sledges on them.  They also tend to be softer faced; both as an artifact of the hardening process and as a feature when you have folks swinging sledges on them all day long!

The one I sold; moderate sized at 248#, showed the wear consistent with use in the mines. It too had one bad edge and one good edge reflecting the work done on it and not by a 1 handed smith's hammer!

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Well said, this is my thinking with the new Trenton addition to the shop.  With all the info from here and some due diligence, it must be a trenton because the stamp is identical to some of the other Trentons pictured, and all signs seem to point in that direction with the identifying characteristics.  Here in the PNW anvils are a feeding frenzy and i just happened to be number two on the call list and said 2.75/lb cash, pick it up today and only a 22 minute drive south of town as well!  Everyone was very happy and the beast will be mounted as soon as i have some time to cut up one of the fresh log rounds in the back yard.  My 1928 125# Soderfors is in fantastic shape and has just enough chips on the edges to show its a real loved anvil, but the rebound is incredible, the anvil face is hard as sin, and it is as loud as the liberty bell.  Seen more than one person almost get hit in the head because of one mis strike and the hammer goes flyin, so this one i dont mind doing a little more training with inexperienced folks, since its a well used piece and i dont get nervous about anyone accidentally taking the edges off of this bad boy.  

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