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I Forge Iron

3/4 in. Round.


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Thanks for the help Thomas. Forgive me for misusing more terminology :wacko:. lve got plenty to learn. Anyway, I think buying online is a grand idea, because I dont think I can afford a ton of steel. Thanks for recommending that, it makes lots of sense. 

Happy forging!


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A friend of mine recently took an ABS course at Texarkana and they were using 5160 for the class; so he bought some similar to practice what he learned, His instructor said he could forge a blade that would pass the ABS journeyman's cutting tests with it.

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Don't apologize Daniel, no need. This is a world wide forum, 50,000+ members in around 150 countries all over the planet. Different terminology is the norm, I've been trying to nudge folk everywhere into a more common Jargon so we can spend more time swapping knowledge than describing what A word means. 

Another tip for today. . . so far, I'm sure I'll think of something else later today. :rolleyes: 

NEVER have a tool in contact with the work when you turn the tool on as seen in the spark test earlier. It puts excessive loads on the motor and can cause breakage say if you have a lathe cutter or drill bit pressed on the work when you turn it on, it's LIKELY to break the cutting edge of the bit. Make sense? If you listen to the spark test video you can hear the poor motor REALLY straining to get moving and it never runs smoothly.

Next time start the sander and then gently touch the test piece to it. This lets the machine get moving properly and you can apply the pressure needed, the weight of a 10' stick of 3/4" dia rod leaning on it is a BIT:o much.

Frosty The Lucky.


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Thanks Frosty,

Always open to constructive criticism. I'll make sure to keep that in mind, becuase I dont want to damage the tool. I am a youngster so I know I will continue to make plenty of mistakes. It is people like you who prevent me from doing more damage:rolleyes:. Thanks again!

Happy forging,


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