Rolandag2 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Built a forge burner and a make shift forge from a welding rod box lined with inswool ceramic fiber. Mind you I’m using a regulator that I had lying around. I ordered an adjustable regulator. I’m trying to get some input if my forge burner is working fine. AFD7C2E4-6654-40C5-BBC8-BE7000A1AD1C.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolandag2 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 I posted a video but it won’t play. Also, I know now that inswool has to be coated so the makeshift forge won’t be fired again until I get itc-100 to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 And your question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Your video didn't. Just shoot us a photo or two, and we'll get on with things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolandag2 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 I know that I have rigidizer the inswool with Satanite which is on order along with an adjustable regulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 First, you need to move your burner back up into the opening to keep your nozzle from sticking out--before it melts. You already know that you need to at least add a seal coating around the inside surfaces of your forge; none of us here recommend ITC 100 anymore. You would be much better off to get some castable refractory, or seal coating from Wayne, who sells small amounts of them for projects like yours. Finally, I recommend laying a broken bit of high alumina kiln shelf (from a pottery supplies store) on your forge floor area, and redirecting your burner's flame a little bit, to keep it from impinging on the wall area. Let that kiln shelf take the heat instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolandag2 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 51 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said: First, you need to move your burner back up into the opening to keep your nozzle from sticking out--before it melts. You already know that you need to at least add a seal coating around the inside surfaces of your forge; none of us here recommend ITC 100 anymore. You would be much better off to get some castable refractory, or seal coating from Wayne, who sells small amounts of them for projects like yours. Finally, I recommend laying a broken bit of high alumina kiln shelf (from a pottery supplies store) on your forge floor area, and redirecting your burner's flame a little bit, to keep it from impinging on the wall area. Let that kiln shelf take the heat instead. So, flame looks good? I’m gonna get a insulated fire brick and that forge was just to test. I made a new one and the burner hole is centered on top. Just got a new regulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 I can't tell conclusively from that photo, but it is likely to be okay, or it would be larger and, looser. Compact flames tend to be pretty good, overall. Will we find room for improvement? Very likely. But, will there be something very serious; not likely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.