Has any1 ever made the 55 forge?
how does it work?

thanks

I designed and built the 55 Forge, the Side Blast 55 Forge, and the Supercharged 55 Forge. They were designed in such a way that most anyone in the world can get the parts to make the forge. The forges will work with solid fuels, and have been tested with soft coal, coke, fresh cut wood, seasoned wood, and wooden pallets. They are inexpensive to construct, can be built quickly using minimal tools, and they work.

Several people have built the 55 Forges. Several more have modified the design to make similar forges.

As how the 55 Forge works, the answer would be very well.

Stop teasing me. What is the 55 Forge? I'll be starting to build my forge from a cast iron sink soon but would love to know if there is something better and easier to build. Do tell!

BP0133 55 Forge

Cool. Thanks!

I was at the hammer in when Glenn demoed the first 55 forge. I can tell you for a fact that it does work and is probably one of the cheapest and easiest to find parts wise. Glenn went on to use the 55 and he fabricated several objects to show people that it would work. Attached is a photo of the original 55 forge.

Thanks Alan, I remember your amazement when the forge was brought up to forge welding temperature. And when the demo was over your looking at the forge stand very carefully, inspecting for damage, and finding NO DAMAGE at all. (grin)

can somone post the link to the supercharged 55 and the side blast 55 forges

Photo are as follows:
Original 55 Forge modified to fit on a potty chair.
BP0238 Side Blast 55 Forge
BP0333 Supercharged 55 Forge
BP0518 New Fire Pot for the Supercharged 55 Forge

All images were taken during the first fire in each forge. The fire had not had time to build a bed of coals or even get real hot yet.

The interior brickwork was for a special project that required a little different type fire. The fire pot is currently in use. It has a 3 inch air tube going into the fire pot, with 2 each 1/2 inch rods acting as a grate, and can use lump coal or fines with this set-up.

I have been considering building a brake drum forge however several people have been referring to Glenn's 55 side blast forge as a better alternative. None of the pictures or links seem to be working and I have been searching can anyone point me in a direction to find some plans and or pictures for making this forge?

Bet Glenn can find the pictures. Depending on your fuel of choice and your acces to an exsast/welder 

The basic 55 sideblast forge consists of the bottom 7-8" of a drum. One may want to cut the drum as to have a wind guard and shade hood. 

So now we want to take a peice of 3/4" black pipe (about 7/8" ID) and cut a hole in the side ( back of the drum for a hood) so the bottom of the hole in the pipe is 3" of the bottom. 

xxxx forbiden deamons!

At this point laying two bricks side by side, 2" of adobe or packes clay provide insulation for the forge pan, and keep you from diging to deap when cleaning out the forge. 

I recomend you cut a hole between two bricks, in a steel plate or forme a wall out of clay or adobe to act as a "bellows stone" this will make the tuyeer last longer and keep slag from geting under it. 

Classicly fill the pan with ash and cinders, but sand and dirt work just fin. Dig a hole down to 1" below the tuyeer in a bowl shape, 6-8 across and walla. For coal you can leave an inch or so for extra fuel, for charcoal dont, as the fire will grow. 

See Got mittens post on his hoderus mission for a picture. 

For the simple 55 forge, have or fabricate a tuyeer and ash dump from 2" exaust pipe. This alows you to use a 2" exaust flaper with a counter weight as a dump door. 

Either take a drum or a drain pan and cut a hole in the bottom to fit the tuyeer. Glenn worked a flange on the end of the exaust pipe after it was pushe threw the hole and placed a 1/2" bare trew the tuyeer to act as a great and hold the tuyeer from the bottom

This is good for coal, not so much charcoal. 

Again filling with sand or dirt to with in an inch of the top and digg a hole down to the tuyeer or "clay" with compacted clay or adobe. Is another good option. Galvi oil drainpans wont hurt you as the dirt insulates the pan from the heat. 

Now if you go for the hood, cut it so you can pass long stock threw the center of your fire. If you st this up indoors where on needs s flue, place you fire bowl a bit forward of center, as you need to bring your flue down to the "table" or dirt and cut a hole in the side to draw the smoke, the hhod generaly sucks for catching the smoke, tho a saller hole into the flue at the top of the hood helps scavange any that reaches it. 

Clear as mud?

Clear as mud! Thank You Charles I will keep digging for some photos I think that will help clear up some of what you are explaining to me. I appreciate your feedback.