Today I went out to my porta-shelter where I store stuff that I don't use as often, only to find a tree limb had come down through the roof. The hole can be fixed but the limb hit and broke the pan of my portable candy rivet forge, this is the forge I use for demo's. So I have to weld the cast iron pan and I hate welding cast because even when you do every thing right there is the chance that either the cast iron cracks or the weld:mad: . Well now I will use this time to clean, repaint and rebuild this forge:rolleyes:, so down to my questions. 1st what do people like to use for oil in the crank blower gear box? ( it was packed with heavy grease ) 2nd question what do people like to line the pan with because every time I line the pan of this forge the clay always cracks and spalls. Oh did I say that upon pulling the blower apart I found the the blades are made from vintage Shlitzs beer can well that explains why this blower was always loud. Any hints or tips would be great. Thanks

Instead of welding the cast iron pan, consider using flat bar and rivets, and doing a band-aid repair. I quit trying to clay the pan on my demo forge, I'm just real careful about not pouring too much water on the coal when it's hot.

I agree with mark-hr, band it with 1'' wide x either 1/8" or 3/16" and use either rivits or bolts. I have a lever type blower and forge (pat. 1883 by STAR Machine Works Buffalo, NY) and that is what I am doing to my pan. Someone had attempted to 'dob' the break with 'no-tellin'-what' and needless to say it didn't work. Also, instead of claying the pan try to find some brick and sawing it in half, making it thinner, and lay in the bed. I have seen this done and it leaves a deeper 'hole' making for a little deeper fire. This is how I plan to use the STAR forge. Welding or brazing to repair will result in cracking again as the repair will not expand at the same ratio as the pan when heated. Good luck, and sorry to hear about your misfortune. But then, would you be overhauling the blower now if this had not happened!?? ;)

i have a cast forge table that is cracked in a couple of places.it was repaired just as Mike and Thomas stated,long before i got it.i have had stand on it a couple of times,it makes for a strong repair.

ive repaired one by brazeing it .... worked well for as long as i had it . I dont line my forges anymore .. I found the lineing to be more of a pain than it was worth ... the lineing would crack and clinkers were always sticking to it .. I use a portable forge i made with a 14 ga pan with no lineing and its been going for years .......

A piece of angle iron ( IIRC 2"x 1/4 ) under the forge table ( holes drilled either side of the crack and some short 3/8-1/2"bolts finger tight ) works well. I had a Canedy Otto table crack several years ago and made the fix in this manner. Held fine till the pot finally gave up and actually the table is still in the shed.

Thanks everyone. I already welded the table with some cast rod but I did drill relief holes at each end of the cracks and I preheated the table. I think I will try lining it with the thin fire bricks just to protect the pan from heat but only because I welded it.