I started planning my forge build about 8 months ago when it was still too cold to build or really spend any extended amount of time outside. Well it's summerish here in the great white north so I could finally build my forge. 

Here are the spec, the shell is made from a 5 gallon auxiliary compressor tank that I got for free, it is lined with 2" kaolin-2600 ceramic blanket, which has been rigidized and coated with a castable refractory. I was asked by the person who sold it not to name it because it is still in the process of being patented but I can say it is similar to plistix. I will be using a 3/8" kiln shelf as the floor. I am using 2 1/2" Frosty T burners.

This is a quick video of the first firing of my forge, a few notes:

- I know I need to tune the burners

- that is not the table it will be mounted on, mostly because wood burns and uncontrolled fire is bad

- it reached an incandescent heat in 5 min running at 10 psi

- I know my plumbing is ugly, but I works and that's what matters

 

I do have a question, should I use fire brick to close the back or would kiln shelf work? I have a bit of 1" kiln shelf that came with the thinner stuff I'm going to be using for to floor (I got it on kijiji as a lot)

kiln shelf makes a fine door.  If you have some channel iron to serve as a track, it's a dandy solution.

Nice job so far. Do you plan to make an internal movable wall, so you can just run one burner, whenever you don't need all that space?

I certainly am planning on making an internal wall. I have some soft fire brick, the 1" kiln shelf, and some left over ceramic blanket and refractory, what would you suggest I use for the internal wall?

High alumina kiln shelf is hard to beat for external baffle walls, and for internal movable walls.

So, I had been having issues with getting my forge hot and anything less than 15psi, So I went back through the T-burner thread and the forged 101 and burners 101 threads, and I rebuilt my burners and relined my forge.

I made new jet ejector assemblies to hold the mig tip dead centre, my first ones were misaligned just a bit, and I cut down the mig tips a bit shorter than last time. I replaced just the inner most layer of ceramic fibre blanket and put new cast able on the entire inside, as well as casting a removable floor from a bubble alumina cast able, and gave the bottom a coating of a kiln wash ti increase the flux resistance even more. On the whole it looks basically the same, but holy cow does it work better!

Prior to the rebuild I was getting up to about 1800F at 15psi, now I'm hitting the maximum temperature range of my thermocouple at 10psi, that's 2750F. Now it's a cheap thermocouple and cheap display, I probably spent like $25 on the pair so I wasn't convinced that it was all that accurate. Wellp, I was forging an oldish jackhammer bit in to a chisel and got side tracked for like 10min, also having forgot the my regulator was set to 12psi, because I was practising forge welding earlier. I took out the jackhammer bit and low and behold the tip is burnt xxxx near off, and melted a hole in the kiln shelf I was using as the back door. So I guess my forge does get that hot... now it runs at 1500F at ~1.5psi, though it will only run like that for about 7or8 minutes before the burners start popping and farting. And I dont dare run it higher than 12psi because I feel like I might actually melt the inside of my forge.

I would like to see you feature the new forge in the Forges 101 thread with photos and a write up about it, including the changes. I like the design and size; it deserves to stick around when this month is over with, and I think its addition there would be a service to people searching for good forge design ideas.

I certainly can do that, though it will have to wait for the weekend as I wont have a chance to get to my shop until then.

Excellent; I think it will make a fine contribution to the Forges 101 page