Michael Cochran Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 I have a small drop point I'm making from a file. Usually I'd forge it and have to do the full heat treat to figure out but didn't want to wast time or steel. I've read things online that I've never found good reliable sources that agree so I have to ask. I've read files are left as quenched with no tempering so that means it's going to be impossible to shape by hand. I have the basic profile cut/ground out but now I'm at the point where I need to put in the bevels. I know I need to temper it before I try to go any further which is where I'm wanting to double check some information. I'm seeing tempering suggested at 600F (for 1095) which seems high for a knife. I usually use 1084 for my knives and don't temper higher than about 400F. Can someone please help me out a little bit. Either point me in the right direction or tell me how bad I've already messed up etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 I'm thinking I'm just gonna go for 400F and see what that does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 The materials guy at Nicholson told me that treating their MACHINIST files as W1 would be a good choice. The wood files, and rasps are made of a lower alloy due to the fact that wood and hooves are not as hard as steel. You can grind in a full hard condition, I have done it myself. Just keep it cool. Then draw the temper once it is shaped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Thanks, BIGGUN, it's not a high end machinists file but it's far from a rasp. Truth is I don't know the brand since the rust had the markings obscured but I sparked it and repeatedly broke it to verify it was good steel. I just thought I'd try like it was 1095 because I forgot reading your numerous posts saying it could be W1. Right now the only grinder I have right now is a crappy bench grinder (I need to finish collecting scrap to build my belt grinder). I could use the belt grinder at work but the platen seems to have a little wiggle in it and someone welded a piece of angle iron across the belt at an odd angle (not quite 90* from front to back or left to right) and right in the way. Once I get a little more planning done I'll see what I can do with it anyway. I have too many differing ideas how to do this one so I need more pen and paper time before I grind it and realize I would've been better finishing it differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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