I have been getting a bit done on my kukri made from concrete breaker bit and large bandsaw blade so it should be S7 and L6 or maganese steel with should go grey when etched and nickle which should go silver when etched. As with and used steel you dont know what it really is but so far is true to adveratising, this was etched in boiling white vinegar. Its not heat treated yet so hope it doesnt crack. This is my first pattern welded blade though I have done several cable damascus blades.

If by concrete breaker bit you mean what here in the states call a jackhammer bit, here in the states they are mainly 1050---we had a member who's career was reforging them and had done over a million and said only a handful were anything but 1050.  There is an infamous junkyard steel list that says jackhammer bits were S series; but they were working off the alloy description from Machinerys Handbook that said S series would be good for that use---well Titanium would be great for car bodies too; you ever seen a car with a titanium body?  (got one coming out as a concept car that uses Titanium but that's pretty much the exception that proves the rule.)  Anyway 1050 will etch dark compared to bandsaw blade; just might be a tad less hardening.

Now if you have good documentation on them be S series in NZ please share it with us and we will add it to the exceptions list!

Thomas

I am not sure what the Breaker/jack hammer bits are but ive turned them on the lathe in the past and they werent just a carbon steel they seemed to be a very tough type of steel but time will tell post heat treatment I was given a whole lot from a local hire place that i fix things for these will be factory original parts more than likely. Cheers Beaver

 

well here is a site that shows a gracious plenty of them

https://www.crowdersupply.com/pavingbreakertools.htm?gclid=CMH9w-zexM4CFQEFaQodfPAG9A

BTW did you anneal it before your turned it?  Heat treat status makes a big difference in machining