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I Forge Iron

Found another one


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Stopped  by a flea market over the weekend. After inquiring about blacksmith tools. A vendor mentioned he had some stuff at home.

After meeting at his place, and a little negotiating. I walked away with a 123 pound Trenton, Warren tool 3/4 fuller, and 3 pairs of tongs.

Someone had painted it silver at some point. But it cleaned up easy enough.

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27 minutes ago, Scrambler82 said:

Good Morning and good score.

I have to ask a question…, from the picture of the Anvil, the top looks like the plate is separating from the base, did you do a “Rebound Test” and maybe tap the top to see if it is secured ?

The base looks like it is still in good condition but the top plate is broken out, just me asking for info, I need to understand.

Tongs and Hardie look good.IMG_3782.thumb.JPG.d49529a6f63e4c98a3aa6

I am not worried about the face at all.

Rings fine, and rebounds at 75-80%

Maybe the paint exagerates the line.

16 minutes ago, Black Frog said:

how about a picture of the serial number on the front foot?

Serial number is 165236

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10 hours ago, Black Frog said:

Can you take a closeup of the side logo stamp?  I'd like to add it to the logo database I have going for Trenton anvils.  Thanks!

The logo stamp is pretty worn. I can tell that the N is not like an X like most Trentons that I have seen.

As far as the serial number goes, I cannot tell if the first number is a one. Or if it is just a weird spot on the foot.

What age would you put on this anvil?

 

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Thank you for the pics!  The first digit does not loot to be a "1", it might be remnants of a leading "A" prefix seen on many Trentons.

If it was indeed a  leading 1 for a 165xxx serial number, the logo stamp would be a different style.    Yours logo stamp agrees with the style of 65xxx serial number range.  Thanks again! :-)

Also you can take a pic of the underside of the base to see if it is the early style cast base or the later style.  That helps with serial numbers too....

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3 hours ago, Black Frog said:

Thank you for the pics!  The first digit does not loot to be a "1", it might be remnants of a leading "A" prefix seen on many Trentons.

If it was indeed a  leading 1 for a 165xxx serial number, the logo stamp would be a different style.    Yours logo stamp agrees with the style of 65xxx serial number range.  Thanks again! :-)

Also you can take a pic of the underside of the base to see if it is the early style cast base or the later style.  That helps with serial numbers too....

It is a cast base.

what year would that put this anvil at?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I know I'm a little late to this topic, but in an effort to help black frog, I also have what I believe to be a Trenton. It is a more stocky shape though, and has square handling holes present on underside and under horn & heel. Pics will follow 

These are some of the pics I took when cleaning it up a few months ago. It's easier to make out the "RENTO" on it in person inside a diamond. The part I am confused about is most Trentons I see are a different shape, and don't have the square handling holes. Any info would be appreciated. I think I had this on here back in January also, but mainly wanted these pics to get to Black Frog incase they were of some use. 

 

Brent 

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Thanks Bayshore!

Yours is an earlier German-made Trenton.  Unfortunately the German ones didn't have serial numbers, so no good way to track the manufacturing date.  The German ones had several different varieties of the TRENTON stamp.

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No problem! 

Funny thing, just bought a littler anvil, I believe it's a Trenton now too (no idea before I bought it since it was painted). Rebound about 70-75% with BB test. Nice ring, semi painful pitch on the heel. Was told it was 75lbs, haven't weighed it myself. For some reason the pictures make it look bigger than it is, it is quite a bit smaller than my previously posted 180lb Trenton. Yes I know the horn tip is messed up, any thoughts on if I should try to shave it back down? Looks as it someone peened it back upon itself. 

Pics for you Black Frog:

I can make out the Trenton logo, but over the logo is something else.. Looks like -SID- 

 

 

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I believe there is a sound reason for so many horn points being hammered back and it deals more with how many smiths in a hurry with hot steel have managed to ram a sharp pointed point into their thigh or much more sensitive parts than in working methods.  I would leave it blunt and forge a bic for the hardy hole if you need a fine point---I like this method too because if I need a small point I'll be working smaller material and having it up higher is easier on my back.  I pick up old bullpins when I find them cheap and have forged several of those to fit in the hardy hole for use as a bic.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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