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I Forge Iron

refractory


Black Ink

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I wanted to make bricks strong enough for doors so I tried a different mix the suggested,they crumbled but I used the same mix to insulate a new forge and it been working top knotch. heres the mix. 1 bag fireclay,1/2bag morter,1/2bag sand,1/3box of borax.Iwould add alittle more sand but its been great.

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I am not sure what you mean by airborne problems with refractory. I use Plicast31 and according to their MSDS sheet their is no problem. I don't use KaoWool because of its fragility. I don't use ceramic refractory and so not sure what the problem is. Once it is cured their is not much to fly around from the Plicast31. Here is a link to their MSDS sheets. I used to use hard refractory and it takes a lot more propane to heat up and keep hot, when you put a bunch of metal in it just sucks the heat out of the forge and takes linger to heat up.


PLIBRICO: The Leader in Monolithic Refractories

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If you want more strength just add some grog but it really isn't nessecary, and to make it more isulative add some finly ground up foam or even fine saw dust, when fired it burnsout leaving little air pocckets which act as an insulator.
If you want higher temp rating then use epk-kaolin instead of generic fireclay.

Bailey Ceramic Supply - Clay - Dry Clays and Chemicals

welder19

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Also if you want it efficent then you want to use kaowool with a thin hot face and use the epk for that or if you have the $$ then buy ITC-100 and coat it with that, either one will stiffen it up as well as eliminate any airborn particles, just be sure to wear a dust mask when working with it, you can also dampen it which will cut down on the harmful dust when working with it.

welder19

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