Krush Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Now here was someone with his thinking cap on. obviously built well based on the hammers ability to move steel and i dont see any yawning in the throat even with the adjustble ram. this raises the bar, has anyone else tried this before https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_IMPd-bapk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 it's a great bit of kit. I bought myself one of Dave's hammers earlier this year, though mine uses a bottle jack on the side rather than the scissor jack. I posted a quick video of it on my farceboo page a couple of weeks ago for some friends who wanted to see it wrking. When I get to it I'll do another working bigger stock (maybe making some hammers or axes) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tM_8AbnKLs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krush Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 awesome, i sold a very well built kinyon style hammer with a 70lb ram including dies and I was happy with it but was very expensive to operate and i think that DP hammer with the adjustable ram on the main beam would give even more freedom for different tooling and material sizes. From the video it doesnt look like there is any yawning or flex in the beam the ram is bolted too. can you tell me what thickness that tubing is? also is the ram solid square stock or heavy tubing? I have been reviewing different mechanical hammers and have been evaluating the difference in different fabricated hammers and buying an older LG, Beaudry or fairbanks but for my uses i think this style fabricated hammer possibly with the linkage style on the X1 powerhammer on the anvil fire forum would suit me best. great video thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 without going to the workshop and measuring it (I'd forget to do that if I intended to!), the rear beam is box section with walls of about 6mm. The ram is also box (same size stock as the rear beam) with a hefty solid lump inside that the dies bolt to. I don't know if it is all steel in there or lead-filled, but it weighs 30kg plus the linkages and dies before attaching to the springs/tyre. I've not noticed any flex in the beam, there is only a fairly short section that isn't also supported by clamps or welds (is the bit between the bottom of the headstock and the top of the anvil joint). The raising is great, especially if you tend to use the same hammer to upset a 8" tall block and later want to reduce a 6mm thick bar to 2mm without buying a second hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krush Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 thanks for the information, thats about all that i needed, i think i can piece the rest of what i need together from your video and some of the other DP120 videos ive seen. The adjustable height drive/ram assembly is the best idea ive seen since the tire hammer clutch design. thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 That's an ingenious design and exactly what I've been looking for. I've been working on a similar design, but could never figure out how to work the treadle linkage! If the rear column is square tube, you'd do yourself a tremendous favor by backfilling the tube with a whole bunch of sand. Not only doesn't it add weight and slow down the dancing, but it will significantly decrease the noise because you no longer have an echo chamber there. Just add a cup or two of oil to the sand and you'll have nary a worry about corrosion or noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krush Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 good idea, from the information ive seen it looks like the DP hammers use Tubing for the ram. i will build mine with solid steel and a heavier base. from the different videos they can really move the metal and are so versatile. with a heavier anvil to ram ratio and a solid ram it will only improve the energy transfer into the workpiece and move that much more metal. a nice and quiet sand or shot filled box beam spine is the way to go. im looking forward to the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I'd be interested in what the braking system is on this hammer? It seems to stop with the tup up almost all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krush Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 just had me a eureka moment, im going to build one of these but instead of using a bottle jack i am going to use a linear actuator with a 3 position toggle to raise and lower the whole ram assembly. I have easy access to heavy duty linear actuators that run off of 110 voltage that come off of old home wheelchair lifts. nothing wrong with the motors, gearboxes or the heavy duty threaded rod either. just loosen the ram assembly bolts and flick a switch. i know the DP120 is simple enough and probably takes no time but might as well utilize the linear actuators i have access to. collecting the materials now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 On 04/12/2015, 17:47:16, doc said: I'd be interested in what the braking system is on this hammer? It seems to stop with the tup up almost all the time. the motor is on a pivoting arm that moves upwards to contact the tyre, as that happens a pad (the brake) that is directly beneath the tyre comes away. The reason the tyre appears to stop at the top each time is actually just down to good judgement on the operator's part I guess the linear activator would work, but I like to keep things simple myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRS Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 18 hours ago, Dave Budd said: the motor is on a pivoting arm that moves upwards to contact the tyre, as that happens a pad (the brake) that is directly beneath the tyre comes away. The reason the tyre appears to stop at the top each time is actually just down to good judgement on the operator's part I once thought about a break that only holds it in top position: A second disc that is smooth on the surface, expect there where you want the break to stop the hammer. Never tried it, and it could somethimes give you one more strike until it stops, i think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 one more strike would be a pain in the rear I reckon. Quite often it's one less strike that I would like! It doesn't take long to get the nack of stopping the tup in the up position, even if not 12 O'clock, then well on the way up. What I would like is to find a way to deliver a single blow. I can get it to move slowly for control, but sometimes I want one big strike like a drop hammer gives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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