November 19, 201510 yr Next on my tool list are the cold and hot chisels. What is a good sharpening angle for them? And for a hot cut in the hardy hole?
November 19, 201510 yr 60 deg is the gold standard, with secondary angles about 1/2 that, thin for hot, stubby for cold. A slightly curved (like an axe) profile helpes as well. Most tools and knives like 60 degrees, but the secondary bevel plays a big role in performance.
November 19, 201510 yr Author Thanks Charles. But what do you mean with secundairy angle half of 60? I know woodworking chisels. They usually are 25 degree primary (grinding) angle and 30 degree secundairy (wetting) angle.
November 19, 201510 yr I have the normanclacher wrong, the sharp edge at 60 the the other angle (to give you clearance to work) at about 30. A hot cut is thin all over (thing brick massons chisel) wile a cold cut is thicker.
November 22, 201510 yr Author Today I finally got round to sharpening a couple of cold chisels. They are just the regular type from the jome centre. On the grinder, and I made a slighty rounded profile at close to 60 degrees. They work indeed a lot better when sharp! Now onto my hardy cutoff tool. I have bought one, making larger tools like hardy stuff isn't quite in my repertoire yet and I learned to appreciate the cutoff tool on my beginners course. The angle of the cutting edge on this thing is very close to the angle on my cold chisels. Should I worry about that allready and start to do a lot of grinding to get it shallower? Or just live with it and see how it goes in the future?
November 22, 201510 yr A cold cut would have an "A" shape close to 60 deg all the way to the anvil, wile a hot cut is going to look more like an axe. As its hot steel you only need a thin section, say 1/4" with a 60degree cuting edge. If your hardy is thick thats ok, dont sweat it. A brick chisel, peice of spring cut to fit diaginaly, a sucker rod knuckle... all can be made in to servicible hot cuts.
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