BHein Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Here are the pictures I have of my first few knives. I am getting the plunge lines better, and the handle shaping is still a work in progress. I have discovered that getting the deep scratches out after hardening is VERY difficult, so I am planning on polishing more before hand. Any other critiques are certainly welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffrat Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Nice looking couple of knives you got there Mister. Yes sanding deep scratches out after hardening is very difficult. Tell me about your rough grinding, how you do it, what tools you use, and what grit you end at before heat treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumbojak Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 They look very nice. Out of curiosity, what sort of wood did you use for the second knife? It looks almost like sassafras to me though the grains seem a bit large compared to what I'm familiar with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHein Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 cliffrat: I have not been happy with using the grinder for shaping, I haven't been able to get the plunge lines even, more practice is definitely required.I start with a filing jig I found online. first step is with a double cut bastard file, next a single cut file then draw file to smooth things out. I then hand sand with 400 to 600 grit till the finish is what I'd call satin. Then to heat treat in my small forge, clean up with hand sanding 600 to 320. After tempering I polish with 320 then on the buffing wheel with jewelers rouge.jumbojak: the wood I chose for the top knife is zebrawood, second from top is my first attempt at home-made micarta and the bottom knife is purpleheart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffrat Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 BH, Setting the plunges freehand on a belt grinder does take a lot of practice, but the process is made much easier by using a guide/jig. Riverside machine works sells a pretty nice file/grinding jig with carbide faces that is useful for all sorts of things including filework. I made a similar tool from two pieces of precision ground O-1 that I still use for filework, but I have the Riverside tool for setting plunge cuts and the shoulders that the guard fits against. Whether you use the jig or not, setting plunge cuts on the grinder should be done with a very flexible belt (I use a Trizac A45) that is set to overhang the platen about 1/8-1/4 inch and operated at very slow speed (40-50%). Hopefully you have a variable speed motor. Pushing the blade up against the face of the platen very lightly, you then slide it across the face until the belt folds over the platen edge and contacts the plunge cut on the side of the platen. Repeat for the other side of the blade and you should be able to get those plunge cuts even. Using the jig makes it easy to stop at a specific point on both sides of the blade. The pic attached is using the jig to set the guard shoulders, it would be flipped around to face the other way when setting plunge cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHein Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 Thanks for the info and pic. I think that I could make something like that to work on my grinder. I have attached a pic of the grinder I made. I designed it to fit on my lathe to get the variable speed, however, I have recently acquired the motor and controls from an old treadmill and am designing another grinder to utilize them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Nice expedient grinder. Well done and it's firmly in the blacksmith's tradition.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffrat Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 That grinder is ingenious! If you use a flexible belt, you should be able to get your plunge cuts nice and even. If you are going to use the jig, you will have to make a work rest that is narrower than the platen (about 3/16") and supported from the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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