Furnace1 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I have a chance to purchase a 50# Fairbanks power hammer but unfortunately my ceiling height won't allow for the motor and drive assembly the way it is now. Which is considerably higher than the machine itself as you can see. My question is how involved would it be to turn all the drive pulleys and motor so that it is attached to the back of the machine down low? There seems to be a slack belt drive and idler pulley from what I can see in the picture. I have seen other Fairbanks hammers configured this way but from what I understand, they were offered that way from the factory. Either for a line shaft drive or a motor drive. Any feedback would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 (edited) If you have a large enough timber base or a base with a steel plate on it, I would think you could put the same arrangement off to the side and redo the slack belt tensioner arm going to the treadle. No one says it has to be vertical to drive the hammer. If you're good with metal fabrication I think you could do something similar to what I did with my LG. I did not want the motor weight up high on the hammer making it more tippy, and wanted to keep the center of gravity low. I have a 32"x 36" 1/2" steel plate on top of a timber base made from 6x6's. The motor "ladder" is has pivot pins down on the base that allow the ladder to tilt towards or away from the hammer. The threaded push bolt pressing on the frame provides the timing belt tension. I really like this arrangement, works very well and I will be doing the same thing for the 50# I'm going through right now. Very easy to change the rpm's of the hammer by changing the belt pulley diameter on the motor or the upper one on the transfer shaft.I would think you could do a similar side-mount arrangement for the Dupont. Drive motor would be mounted down lower on the ladder (whatever height works best off to the side), V-belt running up to your transfer shaft that drives the line belt, and the slack tensioner arm between the motor ladder and the hammer. It would take some time and fabrication, but I think it could work quite well. ....at least in my mind it seems to... Edited April 20, 2015 by Black Frog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Should be easy to do. Everything in your picture above the idler pulley is after-market home built, probably bolted on. I *think* the idler arm is reversible to point down rather than up, will have to take a look at the one at work. You might need a new belt depending on how far you move the jack shaft. If you would like some help with the heavy lifting drop me a line and I could drive down your way some Saturday. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty iron Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 if you google fairbanks power hammer there is a 24 page post on a bladesmithing forum about this very thing but on a 75 pound hammer.The guy done this but never finished his post.But there is alot alot of good reading on the fairbanks hammers. I just bought a 75 pound fairbanks but have not got it home yet .maybe this weekend i will post pics when i get it home. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furnace1 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 If you have a large enough timber base or a base with a steel plate on it, I would think you could put the same arrangement off to the side and redo the slack belt tensioner arm going to the treadle. No one says it has to be vertical to drive the hammer. If you're good with metal fabrication I think you could do something similar to what I did with my LG. I did not want the motor weight up high on the hammer making it more tippy, and wanted to keep the center of gravity low. I have a 32"x 36" 1/2" steel plate on top of a timber base made from 6x6's. The motor "ladder" is has pivot pins down on the base that allow the ladder to tilt towards or away from the hammer. The threaded push bolt pressing on the frame provides the timing belt tension. I really like this arrangement, works very well and I will be doing the same thing for the 50# I'm going through right now. Very easy to change the rpm's of the hammer by changing the belt pulley diameter on the motor or the upper one on the transfer shaft.I would think you could do a similar side-mount arrangement for the Dupont. Drive motor would be mounted down lower on the ladder (whatever height works best off to the side), V-belt running up to your transfer shaft that drives the line belt, and the slack tensioner arm between the motor ladder and the hammer. It would take some time and fabrication, but I think it could work quite well. ....at least in my mind it seems to... Thank you Black Frog for the input. That is an impressive set up you have there and I don't see why it would not work on this machine as well....I will post back if the purchase works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furnace1 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Should be easy to do. Everything in your picture above the idler pulley is after-market home built, probably bolted on. I *think* the idler arm is reversible to point down rather than up, will have to take a look at the one at work. You might need a new belt depending on how far you move the jack shaft. If you would like some help with the heavy lifting drop me a line and I could drive down your way some Saturday. Good luck!Thanks Judson...I would be curious to see how far down that idler can go. I'm heading over to take a look at it on Saturday so I'll have more pictures. Thanks for the offer of an extra hand also...may take you up on that if it all works out!.....you are welcome to stop by my shop any time, regardless. Still have to get to your place too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furnace1 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) Rusty Iron....thanks for the lead on that story. I found it and you're right, it has a ton of info...thanks again!........I'll update after I take a look at it on Saturday. Please post pics of your 75 when you can... Edited April 22, 2015 by Furnace1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.