mikey-p Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Thanks alan That actually helps a great deal.... ive been thinking of making the clearance about 0.3mm so the info you gave me confirms what i thought it should be. now for the machining..... just about finished hollowing out the billet , just have ti cut the flat , OD and tool holder.... will post pics when done... oh , and some video.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 My measurements may be a bit off and 0.3mm sounds a lot better than 2.5mm! Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 I know you are well along the way now, but did you consider getting the tup metal sprayed and then machining back? I don't know anything about the process but it may have possibilities. Would have saved you a lot off boring work! :) Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey-p Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Yeah , sort of considered it untill i had a llok at it after i clraned it up and saw that the cap at the top had been weld repaired and has a million cracks in it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Fair enough! Three or four years after I had built the new workshop around the 3cwt, we were forging away and started hearing an extra knock, found the wedge loose so tightened it up, after a couple of blows the knock was back and the wedge was loose again, huh? I had a look and discovered the front dovetail lump on the tup was cracking off…aaagh! Couldn't face dismantling the workshop to put in a different hammer…but when I looked a bit closer I could see that it was a weld that was opening up…Huge relief, if it could work for at least three years with a weld then I could also just repair it now and then. We cleaned it up vee-d it out and TIG welded it with 312 rods and it has been working fine for the last 16 years or so. The only other problem I had was the cylinder head cracking, and we machined one up out of a bit of 3" plate… The only other problem I had (this is the third now in 20 years of use of a 60-90 year old machine!) was that my assistant assiduously greased the motor bearings too often and the grease got into the windings and I had to have it rewound :( Rubbish reliability really! Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Any news on progress mikey-p? Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey-p Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 ran it for the first time last night..... had a blast... will start some pics and video SOON.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 Im a bit late to the party, but a good rule of thumb for most things power hammery is 0.001" per inch clearance. (bearings, pistons, rams etc !) I cant believe it had worn itself 0.100" clearance on the steel ram and only a few thou in the (much softer) cast iron cylinder. It must have been monkey'd around with by a previous owner, ram from a different machine or something ! Look forward to the vids :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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