mikey-p

mine was spotless when i opened the backplate too... it looked brand new and it had been standing in an open shed for a good 20 years... all i had to do was put some fresh oil in and it runs like a dream... more to follow in the thread i started a while back... so lazy when it comes to video and pics... ill give you a bell if you are around palmie from the 27th - 29th dec rawtiron...

ran it for the first time last night..... had a blast... will start some pics and video SOON....

Yeah , sort of considered it untill i had a llok at it after i clraned it up and saw that the cap at the top had been weld repaired and has a million cracks in it.....

Thanks alan That actually helps a great deal.... ive been thinking of making the clearance about 0.3mm so the info you gave me confirms what i thought it should be. now for the machining..... just about finished hollowing out the billet , just have ti cut the flat , OD and tool holder.... will post pics when done... oh , and some video..

the tup measured 191.22mm and the bore 193.72....

Thanks Alan... i would appreciate ani info i can get... ( helps me make informed guesses) Yes , it ran before the stripdown but it had no lift on auto with the pedal up and i used to get it up by lifting it with a bar and then placing the job in... initially i thought i might have a failed non return valve , but i checked all of them and they are mint... my other problem was when the tup was down , you could actually swing the tup around and it had lateral movement of about an inch and to me that is waaaaay too much.... the guide bearing was worn but even without one , i dont think it should be that loose... Yes , its the self lubricated one with the piston crank driven pump.... the pump/ crank cavity was SPOTLESS... happy about that..... mike

that is the plan hopefully.... weld a spigoted cap and hammer to a hollow tube and machine...

i just measured the weight at 50 kgs , and my foreman and i got to the same assumption tha this hammer creates half a bar of pressure and i also had a llok at the tup itself and its pretty xxxx hollow.... now to manufacture a new on from scratch...... ill keep you posted......

thanks for all the info guys... i till have a few questions though..... 1. What should the clearance between the tup and the housing be? im machining a new tup . its sitting in the lathe , waiting for the final cut... The old one is too loose ( 2.5 mm clearance ) luckily the bore of the housing is true to about 6 thou 2. the original tup is hollow... would it matter if i make the new one solid? it would suck pretty bad if i had to , because the 4340 billet im making it out of jus got out of the tempering oven yesterday. mike And yes , ill post video.... ;)

Thanks for the quick reply and the info! will post pix up when shes all done....

thanks owen. email sent to your website. mike

info added , not sure if theres anyone in nz that can help though.... i know of four , but none of them could help.....

Hey guys... So , the boss walks in this morning and goes , 'Hey mike , you know the little hammer in the storage shed?' i go ' Yeah? why?' ' Well , i think its time to fix her up.' Happy days! But now i have a problem... i have absolutely no info on these hammers as far as tolerences for the piston , hammer or valve ... does anyone have any info about these at all or know anyone who has knowlege that i can contact? ANY info would be greatly appreciated Mike